Joinery - Nickel Gap tongue and groove

Woodshop
#1

OK, so looking for suggestions here. Putting up a couple of walls of nickel gap tongue and groove, where I need the tongue to be about a quarter inch longer than the groove is deep, in order to create a nice offset looking joint.

Been cruising my favorite sites and whatnot, but am not seeing any ideas on whether anyone makes router bits with the same dimensions OTHER than length of the tongue. I suppose I could just set the fence so that the depth keeps the wood from engaging the bearing when cutting the groove, but didn’t know if anyone had a better idea or an adjustable diameter groove cutter, or a groove cutter that I can put a bigger bearing on, etc.

And on a related note, does anyone know if our router is again multi-speed, or is it still stuck in turbo? I’m doing this in mahogany, but will want to dimension down some hard maple while I’m up at the shop.

#2

As far as I know the new router table uses the same the same router as we had in the old (Incra) table, which has/had several speed settings. I don’t recall it was ever stuck on one speed, just that the speed setting switch was hard to access under the table.

I don’t know what width your panels are, but if a manageable size, there’s always the table saw as a solution. A good FTB ripping blade with auxillary fence often gives a better result for this type of thing (less tear-out). YMMV…

#3

There is such a thing as a slot cutter like this;
https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/whiteside-3-wing-slot-cutter.aspx

Come in differing thicknesses. These can be used for cutting grooves or even cutting biscuit slots. Don’t know if DMS has them in inventory, but they are not exactly expensive. Harbor Freight even carries a set that will probably work acceptably for your usage.

#4

One other thought, most tongues in a T&G joint are not very long. You might want to consider lengthening the tongue rather than making the groove shallow … or do some of both. The slot cutter can be used to do this or using the table saw approach favored by Marshall.

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#5

One thing I noticed re: slot cutter: it appears to require a special arbor; if we have one I am not aware. @Mrksls2 would be the one to answer most authoritatively. Not any sort of detraction from the approach – it may be the best way to go all things considered – just if you decide to order that slot cutter make sure you have or order the additional piece.

I’d also think that the combined cost of these two items is low enough, and usage is general enough, that if left behind for the Woodshop after you are done, you could get reimbursed for it via expense form.

#6

Nickel gap is usually done with separate boards installed over a dark background, using nickels to maintain spacing (hence the name).

Kinda like board and batten, but installed horizontally and without the batten.

So… “board” :slight_smile:

If you really want them joined, consider using a shiplap instead of T&G. Lots of easy options for lengthening the lap.

#7

For something the size of a wall do you really want each piece butted up against the next? Seems like you would want to allow for expansion due to seasonal humidity changes. Might be better to use a nickel or thin piece of wood to set the gap

#8

Update: i’m wro… wrrrro… wrrrrrrrro… not exactly right: the speed selector switch broke off a while ago, so yeah, unless you have a very thin long straight rigid metal implement, and can contort into a position such that that implement can be placed correctly up into the bottom of the router to adjust the speed, it is stuck on it’s maximum setting. Not good for a larger diameter bit like the slot cutter in question.

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#9

Like, a screwdriver? I own a screwdriver… Many in fact.

Having not looked at it, is this a part that I can just order and install?

#10

No, not a screwdriver. To give you an idea I think it is part #12 on this diagram:

https://servicenet.portercable.com/Products/Detail?isId=true&productNumber=75182&selectedType=11587

Note that replacing it, or any part, would almost certainly entail removing the router from the table.

I’ve suggested to @Mrksls2 via voice conversation that we just go ahead and get another router, replace old with new, fix old, and that way we’ll have a spare. That may or may not happen? Best way to expedite what you want is to come to woodshop meeting and discuss (there’s one tomorrow: https://calendar.dallasmakerspace.org/events/view/11154) or at least get an item on agenda for next meeting.