Luke,
Looks like I may be inheriting a jeep…
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I’d recommend against it.
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I’m 7 Jeeps in, looking for number 8. Would not recommend.
Wait until 2018, they’re making a turbodiesel wrangler, do recommend that veggie power
I want them to put the 2.0 turbo in front of a manual transmission. That damn 8HP is no joy.
Of the past 300 miles ive driven only 10 of them have been registered by the ecu lol
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Great way to have a low mileage vehicle. Of course, when you compute gas mileage that really sucks.
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The Jeep I may accept (that is a tough phrase to type) is a somewhat vintage Jeep.
It is the first year of the wagoneer, manual transmission, straight 6 (wouldn’t be worthy for a real off road vehicle to have anything but a manual trans with an actual clutch pedal). But like the colour - one doesn’t often get that choice when buying a pre-owned vehicle.
I’n not a Jeep guy, but am curious for those that are - is it possible to buy a newer Jeep with a stick shift three pedal model?
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The Renegade and Wrangler both have a 3-pedal manual as their base transmission.
That said, I’ve wheeled in manual 4x4s and automatics. I strongly prefer automatics. At least for any kind of crawling. It was a lot more stressful and a lot less fun bashing a manual JK up a trail than it was breaking an automatic Grand Cherokee through the same ones.
That said, '63 FSJ?
Want to swap my v8 into your vintage? 
I like many of the old Jeeps… not so much on the new ones.
I do like this Jeepster Commando.
They don’t have to be perfectly clean either.
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Always wondered how you got it out to the desert that clean… or do you clean when you get there?
This is where I got the pic. It came across my news feed today.
I’d image it is Photoshop magic or detail then spot clean it.
Thought I’d update this a bit.
Replaced the gauge cluster with a different one, to my surprise the mileage is kept on the gauge cluster and I happened to pick up a almost-300k cluster :P.
However it did not fix my problem. Next up is replacing the alternator, I think I’ll pick up a 160 amp instead of the stock 136 amp. My theory is the alternator is providing funky current, good enough for the engine, bad for the computers.
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Btw autozone has a goodish deal right now
Basically free next day shipping
Should have a new car by the time I’m done
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I recommend against Autozone because their lowest-bidder remanufacturer system sucks. That said, I also don’t think the alternator is at fault here. Remember: the alternator only provides voltage. It’s the resistors in the system that draw current. If you have stable voltage, the alternator is generating enough current to meet demand.
Not to mention, the engine is running on one of those computers. It just happens to be one of 2 waterproof computers. I still suspect a wiring fault.
I’m almost entirely out of options when it comes to wiring, I’ve checked the passenger harness, driver harness, engine, fuel, pcm, tcm, etc
Well, WJ prices are really depressed right now. Might just be easier (and cheaper in the long run) to buy another one, move all your upgrades over, and sell the old one. I’ve brought this up before. But I really don’t think the alternator is the issue here. Those computer modules all have their own voltage regulation and will run on anything from 10-20v, and they don’t pull enough current on their own to overdraw even the smallest available 4.0l alternator. The only reason the bigger alts were even offered was because the top-spec models had more stereo equipment and extra electric fans.
Besides, you’re seeing these issues whether the car is running or not. Kinda rules it out.
You said you got a salvage BCM that was missing a pin. Seems to me that wasn’t a reliable test part. Maybe pick up a known good BCM and try again?