Here’s some notes from when I made my makers mark for leatherworking out of delrin rod I bought on eBay.
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thank you for the help I didn’t even think about flipping the letters
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Yeah, that’s a pretty important step!
Actually, the same maker’s mark stamp would probably work equally well on both ceramic and leather, since one typically marks ceramic ware when it is “leather hard” (i.e., damp).
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But would heating it like one would to “brand” leather be of any benefit in ceramics?
A leather Mark is pressed/hammered, but not heated.
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Hm. I’ve seen an awful lot of the “makers marks” used like branding irons for leather, wood, etc. but if OP isn’t going to heat his, fine, make it out of all-purpose playdough, or whatever. I still think my advice was sound.
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Actually, no. Using a heated stamp would cause uneven drying, which can potentially lead to cracking. If I wanted a “brand” look, I’d probably use some of the iron oxide wash lightly on the mark. That comes out a brown-ish/reddish tone when it’s fired. Kinda looks like the burn marks from a brand.
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So is acrylic my best bet if so where is a good place to get some
I agree that branding irons are often used on wood as a Maker’s mark, but I would not recommend burning the leather when pressing the Mark into the leather is an option.
I could see burning very thin leather (where pressing won’t work), but would be inclined to use the laser to etch the Mark for the better heat control.
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Depends…
I’ll bet the answers you receive will be on this page
https://dallasmakerspace.org/wiki/Plastics_Suppliers
Inkscape is perfect for creating your image. It results in a vector file like Abode Illustrator.
With a vector, you can laser Acrylic or Delrin.
You can bring that svg image into 3D programs like Tinkercad or Fusion 360. Then you can 3d print them in filament or resin, as well as send out to places like Shapeways to have it created in metal.
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Oh cool didn’t know that thanks
A lot of stamps/makers marks are heated and pressed into leather. This is done after the dyeing stage, and instead of wet stamping. Ian Atkinson points out this works on not just veg-tan, but many others, like English Bridle Leather and prob pull ups.
Not so hot to burn the leather, but still enough to leave a permanent impression.
Some folks use a propane torch/heat gun for their metal stamp (usually brass). Commercial machines avail too.
Ian has a great vid here about why and how:
The next set up is applying a foil (like gold) with heat. We have a little machine for this. I’ve played with it for pencils. It has several adapters for objects, but I don’t remember the size capabilities.
@nicksilva I believe donated to that machine.
Note: Ian has a follow-up on making the stamps.
This is a good project for the Shapeoko if you choose brass.
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Thanks for sharing this.
I’d seen heated stamps used for chrome-tanned and oil-tanned leather (where casing wasn’t an option), but he makes a good case (no pun intended) for the occasional use with veg-tan as well.
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You can cut brass on the Shapeoko?
Thank you I’m not cleared on the shapeoko yet though
Yes. Aluminum too.
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Agree with you. Brass or aluminum, or in fact copper or silver although those two machine poorly on the S2. Just can’t use any cutting fluid.
Sweeeeèt!!!