If you use the woodshop, please read this

I’m not a woodshop guy, but this brings up an interesting question for me. I took woodshop 101 a LONG time ago (in fact, have done so twice now) but don’t remember that we actually went over how to clean filters or any of these tasks during either of my 101 classes.

When performing these tasks, I assume that it effectively shuts down the woodshop?

Some people may be more timid about making other people stop their work so that they can do these things (clean out the filters and systems). This is as much a social problem as a technical one.

I might suggest that if you know what you’re doing, in cleaning out the systems, that an announcement over the loudspeaker system, letting people know around the entire building that you’ll be “teaching an impromptu class on how to perform these steps” would actually get a couple people to 1) help and 2) understand what needs to be done, so that we get more people to help out with the process, 3) warn the current users that you’re planning on interrupting their work in XX minutes.

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Can’t help with 2), but have a hint for 1). There are safety goggles made to be dust-tite (?) and can even be found in sizes to cover safety glasses. I have used these in industrial locations with lots of dust. No dust at all in my eyes. You do need to dust them off before removing so dust doesn’t come off the goggles and get in your eyes.
Good luck with your recovery.

Oops. Just realized this is a year ago post I am replying to.

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I spent about half an hour trying to clean out the filter last night (vacuuming, air compressor inside and out, taking it outside and shaking it, etc.), and even after i got almost all of the dust out of it, the vacuum still went all the way up to about a 4.5. Is there something that i am doing wrong? do you have any tips for proper cleaning of the filter? or is this possibly indicative of a larger problem with the vacuum?

the filter on the north side of the woodshop is shot and needs to be replaced, Andrew has new ones on order.

Zachary, filters present a bit of a paradox: this, from Bill Pentz’s exhaustive web site, which tells us that we want a certain amount of caking in the filter - it helps remove fine dust - but the tradeoff is reduced air flow. Here is the link: http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/dc_basics.cfm#Filters

Filtering Resistance
The maximum dust cake is important in sizing our filters because this is when a filter has the most resistance. Filter resistance changes as the filters get dirty. That resistance is at a minimum when a filter is new and clean. This resistance climbs until it builds a dust cake that provides maximum filtering with good airflow, known as when a filter becomes fully “seasoned”. As the filter continues to clog, the airflow drops until the airflow all but stops and the filter is at maximum resistance. Air engineers use this fully caked resistance level to size our filters large enough to flow the volume of air we want to move. This maximum resistance is also very close to when we need to deep clean our felt filters in a washing machine and start all over building up a whole new cake of dust.

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I a new member… taking the wood shop 101 this Thursday, so I can get access.
I’m kinda compulsive and clean up as I work… I should fit in OK.

Wood Haiku.

Sawdust flurries rise.
Causing Maker Space drama.
Messy, but smells good.

jeff

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