I got this 1.5" heavy duty nylon webbing to build the trebuchet sling out of, anyone know if we have the ability to sew this material at DMS? It would be 4 layers thick where it attaches to a d ring. Would anyone be around late sunday afternoon to help make it? (I made a duct tape model of dimensions)
Are there other options for fastening the webbing together besides sewing?
@hasbridge Harold … Do you think the Rex would handle this? I know the “manual” for the (comparable) Sailrite says it will stitch 3/16" thick material.
I don’t know how to use the Rex, but if someone would show me how to use the machine, I would be glad to take a crack at the sewing. (I’m trainable … I do a lot of sewing-machine sewing; some with a walking foot).
I think that sewing is the way to go with this. If we use grommets or rivets or comparable, then we’d have to sever some fibers in the webbing and that would jeopardize the integrity of the webbing. Also, grommets tend to pop out when they are subjected to a sudden snap on what they’re holding. With sewing, however, we can distribute the stress over a longer “joint”.
Maybe someone in CA can also answer this … do we have “heavy duty” thread for the Rex? Also, do we have ball point needles suitable for that “heavy duty” thread?
@Brandon_Green - do you have a rough sketch of your design concept? Or a photo of your duct tape prototype? I’m just looking to understand the functional concept, not the dimensions (yet). Also - do you have the D-rings? Is there enough webbing to allow a spare 1’ to 2’ with which to experiment?
I’ve seen homemade camping hammock tree straps made of the same/similar webbing. Usually it’s done with a normal sewing machine using thick guterman polyester thread. Sewing a simple loop at each end and making a double stitched box with an X is the pattern I’ve seen most. Usually at least 2 boxed Xs. Sometimes I’ve seen a running zig zag pattern instead.
Without seeing the design I don’t know if this will work, but working with webbing and a thread injector (sewing machine) is pretty easy.
Here’s one example:
This is exactly the stitching I had in mind.
Brandon: Bring a sample of it tonight. @Bitta has a Intro to leather working and I believe will be demoing the Rex machine. I’m pretty sure it can do the sewing if it will fit under the foot. To my knowledge it does have a knife edge needle in it like the Pfaff so it can sew without slicing its way through.
I have a roll of 1.5" nylon webbing that I could donate if you need it for your project
Thanks, I already ordered 10 yards of 1.5" webbing, which should be plenty for this
Here is what I was thinking, the pouch would span a 120 degree arc on a 10 inch diameter spherical projectile, that is how I got the arc lengths for all the pieces.
I’m not sure if it would be better to cut 45 degrees out of the main long straps at the joints so it can make the bends eaiser, cutting would decrease strength, but without notching it only the inner edge is in tension anyway.
This doesn’t look too hard to stitch. I do not recommend cutting the webbing - it will be difficult to keep that cut from enlarging.
Roughly how far apart will the two D-rings at the top be?
Before we stitch this, can you try your duct tape model by flinging a basketball? (I know that’s only 9.4" dia, but it should be close enough to get an idea). I’d like to make sure that it actually releases the sphere before we sew it up.
Agree with Chris on cutting, fold a 45 degree angle and stitch it in.
FYI, in case you need more webbing, Turners (now True Value) has some webbing. Bought some for the Jet Cream hold down straps. Most was on close-out so pretty cheap too.
Yes, I think the Rex should be able to sew through it without much trouble. I’m not sure if it currently has a leather needle in it, but it should have some general purpose needles with it that will do the trick. I’d also recommend using heavy upholstery nylon thread, the stuff on the big spools.
Also, regarding cutting, you can singe the edges with a lighter to keep them from fraying. Since it’s nylon, it will melt together nicely.
I’ve always had good luck putting tape where I need to cut, cutting the tape and strap, and then hitting the edge (with tape) with a lighter. Be ginger or you’ll burn out a chunk of the strap or light the tape on fire.
I’d use the yellow load tie-down straps. You can stitch these together by hand with a “Speedy Stitcher” sewing awl. You can cut the pieces to length and flame seal the ends with a lighter (I recommend a long lighter since you’ll run the flame for several seconds and at odd angles).
I used to sew vertical caving climbing gear by hand and the sewing awls work well. Comes with 50 lb test nylon. Sewing 6 stitches/inch and a 2"X 3" X-box will make a join nearly as strong as the webbing.
I recommend sewing two Zs overlapping to make the x-box pattern. This adds redundancy in the bizarre event that one set of stitches comes completely undone. Tie off the ends of the thread in a square or surgeon knot then flame and melt ends together.
I have a couple of used 15 foot straps I can donate to the project but I am in Colorado at the moment. If you’re interested, PM me an address and I can mail them out this week.
Yes, bartacking, as previously suggested, is the way to sew webbing.
Whether the Pfaff or the Rex will sew it will depend on the combined thickness of webbing as will the size of needle and thread. However, you do not want to use a leather needle to sew webbing as it cuts the fibers and weakens it at the connections, rather than strengthening it. For big dog gear (tracking and pulling harnesses) I’ve used a #19 or 20 regular round needle and bonded T90 thread on .075 flat nylon, but what you will need will depend on the thickness of your webbing (anywhere from .03 to .1 of an inch) and then quadrupled I believe you said. I’ve heard people say that those machines will sew anything that will fit btwn the needle and the dogs, but that is all contingent on what you are sewing, what you are sewing it with and how much you are willing to risk burning up the motor. It’s not the belt or the gearing that will fail - it’s the motor. You can advance those machines by hand, but going backward by hand more than a stitch or two usually results in a rat’s nest of bobbin thread.
As @HankCowdog said, the Speedystitcher is a possibility as well and what www.strapworks.com used to suggest to folks. We have, I believe, 3 of them in the leatherworking stuff…top shelf in the hand sewing box, but I hate those things for leatherwork and don’t know if there are any awl/needles in the box as well or their condition if there are any. That being said, saddle stitching is MUCH stronger overall than the lock stitch you get from a sewing machine.
I don’t know what the specs are for your project, but instead of a net of webbing to hold the object being thrown, what about a leather, fabric or woven paracord cradle/pouch as that would save having to cut the nylon to get it to curve around the ball or whatever you’re going to launch? Say cows, please say cows!!
The pouch needs to hold a 5-10 pound 10 inch diameter sphere as it accelerates at up to 10gs, was thinking webbing would be lighter/stronger than a full piece of material, we can try making both.
What thickness webbing did you order?
The link says it is 0.035" thick.
