How to remove soldered on power cord?

So someone out there has surely tackled this or something like…
I want to shorten the power cord but keep the factory molded plug end.


The only way I can see to do that is remove the ends soldered to the board, cut it off, and re-attach. I’ve tried removing the leads from the board but they refuse to budge. So I figured to remove the board from the enclosure so as to get a better angle on them, but…
This power switch
is the two blades you see soldered in here

and I can’t get them to budge either, and since the switch drops in from the other side, I am lost on how to get that all out.

Do I just need a hotter iron or bigger hammer?
Appreciate any advice, as I already broke one of these and would like to NOT match the set. …

Yes, bigger and hotter will do the trick. You need extra heat for joints like that. The most powerful irons at the space are the metcals. I haven’t seen any big chunky tips for them like you’d want to use here, but judging by the pictures I’d say that with some effort you can probably still get the job done. If not, then one of those 100+ watt soldering guns would work if you could find or get one. I don’t think I’ve seen one at the space.

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Maybe Electronics should purchase a couple of Weller guns for heavy duty soldering…like automotive stuff…

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Andrew,

Do I just need a hotter iron or bigger hammer? Appreciate any advice, as I already broke one of these and would like to NOT match the set. …

I just happen to have a Weller 100/140 W soldering gun at the space. I will PM the location to you.

JAG “With A Big Iron On His Hip” MAN

Paul,

This should fit the bill on the cheap: ($30 - $35 for the kit and well rated)

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-8200PKS-120-volt-Universal-Soldering/dp/B002YDMZF4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1436934664&sr=8-1&keywords=weller+140+watt

JAG “140 Watt - One Kill” MAN

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We had one at the old space at some point, it walked off.

First, use side cutters to snip black zip-line power cord at N and L terminals. Then, apply Weller 100W solder gun to exposed wire, feed in some more solder to get it all flowing nicely (helps heat conduction), grasp exposed wire with pliers and pull gently. Once the wires are clear of the holes, use solder wick or vacuum pen to remove remaining solder from holes. Shorten cord, put wires back in same order (small blade on a 120v cord is Hot or Line, bigger blade is Neutral).

I’ll be at the space tomorrow about noon-ish and can assist. Should take all of 5 minutes to do.

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Thank you each for the help. I’m not a complete novice on soldering, but even with JAGMAN’s 120 watt Weller (thank you, it’s back in the cocoon) i could not get these suckers to budge. I think I started melting the switch, but can’t get the wires nor switch to pull free. Aaaaargh! Can’t come to the 'Space this weekend, but may have to find a time to meetup with someone who knows WTF they’re doing. Thank you @zmetzing for the offer today, but I could not be here at noon. Thank you all again for the effort!

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Actually, that offer was for tomorrow (Thursday) and still stands if that works for you. PM me and I’ll give you my phone #.

How about this: I’ll trade this job for a little supervision and advice when I remove/replace the 4L60E in my truck sometime next month. :wink:

Ah, cool. I’m not sure I can make it, but I’ll pm you in case. I doubt you’ll feel like the trade is very fair since 4L60Es are outside my wheelhouse. My supervision is likely to ape Mackulley Culkin on Home Alone and my advice will probably sound like “Geebus! Didn’t I say 'pay ‘em whatever they want?!?’”

On a serious note, the one thing I DO know about big ol’ auto trannies is this: you need a good trans jack with chains. I dont know if the space has one…

Sure enough, I just did not have “the touch”. Zach (@zmetzing) you ROCK! It was a pleasure to meet you. Thank you so much for showing me how to use the equipment AND how to do the modification. I feel confident now that I could repeat your feat, though it might take me a bit longer than the 5 minutes it took you.