Where is the tractor located approximately? (Town/village/area of DFW etc)
How far away is it (in feet) from an improved surface i.e. hard surface like a driveway etc?
1 Like
It’s near segoville, according to Google maps it’s 35 mins from DMS.
I would guestimate 500 to 600ft from the road, not really sure. I can’t measure on Google maps with my phone.
2 Likes
I’d be willing to bet that with a small set of hand tools, some plugs, a battery, marvel oil, fuel, grease gun, and an afternoon, that puppy would be chugging.
I have found immense joy in getting a motor to run on it’s own after it has been sitting for untold number of years.
I don’t want to speak for others, but I would be surprised if you couldn’t get a few people to join in on the fun. I’d donate a few brewskis to the cause.
2 Likes
Seagoville…not to far.
400 feet is a wee bit more than the cable length on my trailer’s recovery winch (not the end of the world tho).
Weather betwwen 45°f & 75°f without rain would be better along with dryer soil.
I agree with Jottell above & I also think this could be a great P.R. gig for automotive at the Space.
Bottom line is it is a great tractor to work on because they were a basic machine. And parts are readily available - even good parts
1 Like
Just in case anyone wants to do this, this is standard procedure for a vehicle using a breaker bar and rolling the engine over. These tractors have a hand crank that you can use, but the old timers put it in 3rd/4th gear and jack the rear tires off the ground. Rocking the wheels back and forth will work things loose if they’re going to with penetrating oil.
I was told my truck’s 12Klb winch had 90’ of cable on it. Perhaps we can figure something out.
Sooo tempting. I know my Jeep can get to it, air the tires up & pull it… Lockers, big tires & low low gears(2-2.72-1 gear reduction).
Is there a reason you can’t work on it where it is?? I would bet you will have a bigger problem putting air in the tires than getting it to run. If it is out of the rain and has electricity it is as good as it gets. usually repair locations correspond with fire ants and /or mud.
1 Like
Sorry guys it seems I didn’t have reception earlier when I tried to reply. Weird building.
This is what I was hoping for, figured it was something that it didn’t matter if I did anything wrong. Also that it was so old and simple it should be easier, I’m pretty beginner level for car stuff.
I welcome any supervision 
I wouldn’t mind supplying beer to supervisors.
I’m not sure why they want to move it?
This would not surprise me. I will have to check the tires when I am out next.
I’ve been currently a little more occupied with the fence when I have been out there lately. But I could at least dust it off, check the tires and add penetrating fluid to the right locations.
2 Likes
I’d give it some marvel mystery oil or at least the fogging spray, both can be found at Walmart. If you pull the plugs to do this and let it sit, don’t leave the plugs out or loose. Cranking it with the plugs in and too much oil could hydro lock it so it’s not ideal but I’ve had the pleasure of buying engines after a “mechanic friend” checked it out years ago and he was kind enough to leave the plugs out making sure it was seized.
I wouldn’t mind playing with an old tractor again, I’ve enjoyed completely rewiring a few.
If you can pre-lube the entire oiling system it will help with preventing cold scuffs on the bearings and helps to clean out the gunk in the engine.
This site recommends pumping it in via the oil pressure relief system: N90 tractor oil prelube.
It has sat a long time, I’d drain the oil pan and pump in a few quarts of kerosene mixed with some marvel oil to clean out the gunk and sludge. Pull the spark plugs and put ample penetrating oil into each cylinder. lightly replace the plugs to keep dust out.
Once that is through, drain the pan, close it up and push in a quart of solvent through the oil system. Let that sit overnight to de-gunk the pan. Drain it again and put the drain plug in.
Then push a quart or 2 of good clean oil thin (10 weight) through the pressure relief, it can be very plain oil as it’s going to get drained out. Once that is through you can add a small amount of thicker (40-50 weight) oil via the same relief system and close it up.
Use your breaker bar and rotate the engine through a couple dozen rotations with the plugs out.
Check the oil in the pan, it if is good and clear, use the starter to motor over the engine for 10 seconds at a time. It should build pressure.
Drain the oil if it is looking filthy, other wise you can probably do your first start with the mixed oils and solvents. If you do, when you fire it up, only let it run for a minute or 2.
Drain the oil again and add a decent detergent oil, clean the plugs and fir it up to warm it up.
If it does fire up and run you just need to go through, clean it up and replace any worn out parts.
Good luck!
If you really don’t trust the carb or don’t want to bother at first, you can use propane or butane injected in short bursts through a vacuum line. Safer than dumping raw gas into the engine and if you are good with your torch know you may get it to run for a few minutes.
Pull the fan belt, you don’t want to seize the water pump or get caught by a blade and the generator likely needs some help.