Help with Re-sawing wood with Bandsaw

Can anyone help me with re-sawing, I have two 8/4 inch boards that needs to be re-saw to 4/4. I can come by anytime you are available at the shop. Please let me know.

Thanks in advance!

Not an expert - but some advice in this thread.

My biggest suggestion practice, a sharp blade, go slow, and more practice. My success rate isn’t great [so my advice might not be great either], but I think/attribute my failures to dull blades. The harder your lumber the sharp blade becomes more important.

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Thanks for the advise, I will try out. if the blades aren’t sharp in the shop, will there a new ones? I don’t know how to change the blade.

I just put a new on one a few days ago. it should still be sharp… check the blade before you try and cut . If you see missing teeth or damage report it on talk. This was met testing the new blade and checking the resaw.
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Thank you @got_tools . Which band saw did you change the blade?

For re-sawing, you’ll want to use the Laguna Bandsaw [which is the one he has pictured].

One of the two top complaints in the Woodshop is “…The Laguna Bandsaw blade is dull…” [the other one is "The drum sander paper is worn out…]. We should have extra blades hanging on the wall behind the bandsaws - if you ever change out a blade, throw the old one away do not put it back on the wall.

Changing the blade isn’t too difficult. Good video…

Thank you!!

For the record if you don’t mind please bring the DULL blade to the blacksmithing shop. Put it on top of the cabinets after rolling it up and I’ll collect it the next time I’m in. (I’m there every Tuesday) They are usually made of 15N20 steel and can be incorporated into Damascus steel. Alternatively, you can grind the thicker blades into a knife without even heat treating them. I hate to see them go to the landfill. I came in yesterday evening and cut up about five blades into 12 inch segments. I’ll do the same with any blades left on the cabinets.


The most important thing you can do before resawing is make sure the bandsaw is tuned properly. Make sure the blade is tracking properly and the guide bushings are adjusted properly. Make sure the table is 90° to the blade. Use a fence and make sure the face is parallel to the blade. A tall fence is not absolutely necessary, but it helps when resawing wide boards. Run a few test cuts on some scrap hardwood that is similar in hardness and density (and length, if possible) to the wood you are trying to cut. (Don’t use construction lumber like 2x4 or a 2x6 for this.)

Push the wood slowly, but firmly into the blade. If the cut is thinner going in than coming out, this is drift. You’ll either have to adjust how you push the wood into the blade, or adjust the fence by swinging the near end in or out slightly. I usually fix this by adjusting how fast I’m pushing the wood into the blade (either faster or slower) and focusing more intently on what I’m doing. Maintain your speed as you push the wood. If the cut is more narrow at the top than it is in the bottom, you are either twisting the board as you push or the table is not square to the blade. Adjust as necessary.

Resawing–especially wide boards (12")–is intimidating at first, but it is not particularly difficult if the saw is tuned properly and you take your time.

One more thought: Make sure you joint the face that will be running across the bandsaw table and make sure that jointed face is square to the face.