Help Needed with DriveShaft Carrier Bearing Replacement this weekend

Much appreciated!

Removing the cat is straightforward on his car (German)
Iā€™m pretty sure it is stainless steel - what type of stainless - no idea.

The cat WILL sugar on the inside if it is indeed stainless and you donā€™t backpurge with Argon. It will crack again unless you prep carefullyā€¦

Drill holes in the ends of the crack before weldingā€¦clean the crud out of the pieceā€¦both sides of the crack if you canā€¦

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This guy talks about SS repairs.

Definitely magnetic. Looks like someone had welded the top seam on this cat previously and now the bottom one is what needs to be welded.

Here is the top of the Cat where is was welded previously for referenceā€¦

I know Tom mentioned that the parts had not ā€œfailedā€, but the rubber on them was pretty much the consistency of petrified wood. Hard as a rock and lots of cracks.

Here are some images for those of you that might be curiousā€¦




Ciao for Niao!

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Cool!
Did it help with the noise abatement?

Iā€™ve replaced them on vehicles where they have failed - where the bolt sleeves have zero rubber around them - creating a thud or clunk.
Cracks are a sign of normal wear - no harm in replacing them before they fail - that is the plan for routine maintenance and upkeep.

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It is hard to tell if it has helped the vibration issues @jast.

That portion of 35 by Makers is so jacked up that it is hard to know what vibration might be the road and what might be the car. I will say that once I got onto 190, I did still have some vibration, but it was not as bad as I have seen in the past. However my vibration issues do tend to be a little better one day and then really bad the next, so it is hard to say on such a short drive home.

I will know more after I drive to Arlington for work and back tomorrow.

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Is the vibration different or worse during acceleration at different speeds?

The vibration is different at different speeds.
Does not change at all when I put the car in neutral on the highway. Vibration stays the same.
I did have some crazy vibration when accelerating before, but I changed out my tranny mount about a month ago and that went away.

@yashsedai
@TLAR

Okay guys, the wife is officially gone as of tonight so Iā€™m available anytime this weekend to work on the car if youā€™re available. I do have a flexible date Saturday night but otherwise Iā€™m available.

Thanks Again for your willingness to help.

Chris

Wheel bearings, tire tread and balance, axles can be sources of Vibrations in or out of gear, with no change to the vibration if speed is constant.

Wheel bearings are fairly easy to check, and in accordance to murphyā€™s law, it wonā€™t be them, but you still have to check them first, because if theyā€™re the last thing you check, itā€™ll definitely need new bearings.

If youā€™ve satisfied the main prop shaft (and I think new rubbers should go there, hard dry-rotted rubber doesnā€™t damp vibrations very well), then Iā€™d balance the tires and watch them like a hawk on the balance machine to see if they wobble, could be a very slightly bent rim, check the bearings, and if all that looks great, then itā€™s on to the axles.

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I will be around tonight starting about 1830 or 1900

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Just saw this.

I ran through a muffler shop yesterday and they said they could weld it for me for $50, so I think Iā€™m gonna just do that.since they work with this kind of thing all the time. I have to clean off all of the muffler putty before they will touch it though.

Thanks for offering to help @yashsedai.

Chris

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@TLAR:

My date for tonight got cancelled, so I am available all day/night now to do control arms and ball joints and check the wheel bearings if you are gonna be around. Iā€™m also available all day Sunday.

Thanks,
Chris

Gonna grab a bite to eat and then head up to makers to work on a few other little items like fixing a busted rear speaker, grinding off that muffler putty crap, troubleshoot a speaker that is going in and out which might be my amp going bad.

Oh, also gonna stop by an auto parts store and see if I can buy a set of Torx male (T) and female (E) drivers.

@TLAR, if you happen to be up there, we can maybe work on the control arms and such.

Ciao.

$40 and about three minutes on the lift and my catalytic converter is all welded up. The Roadster sounds so much better now. :grinning:

3 minutes to MIG the hole up :slight_smile: