I’m Jeff Goodman. Prior to hiding out from COVID, I was an active member of the DMS woodshop/woodturning community. While hiding out at home, I am doing smaller projects on my Shopsmith 5-in-1 woodworking tool. I recently turned a small wooden vase from a plan in an old issue of Wood Magazine that calls for a nominally 1/2" X 3" test tube. Unfortunately, I can no longer source a glass or plastic tube that will work for the hole in the vase I’ve already drilled.
I’m looking for someone with 3D printing experience to help me with the design and printing. I contacted @themitch22 for advice before posting here and referred me to tinkercad.com. I went through some of the tutorials and quickly determined that although I might persevere and eventually get a reasonable design, it would be a much easier path to ask if someone could guide me through the whole process. I’m willing to pay for materials and negotiate to pay for someone’s time or barter for something I could make for/teach someone from the woodshop.
Anyone here up for the challenge of bringing an old wood guy into the 3d Fab world?
If you end up wanting to stick with 3D printing to learn some CAD and the 3D printing workflow, I’d be happy to meet up at the 'Space or jump on Zoom to walk through it sometime this weekend.
It’s been a while since I’ve used TinkerCAD, but I’d imagine a boolean subtraction of a small cylinder from within a larger cylinder would yield such geometry. Alternatively, in other CAD packages, running the Shell command on a cylinder primitive and using a “split bodies” operation to remove the top might be another method.
Wow, that’s why DMS is so valuable to me (and obviously others, as well). It never occurred to me to attempt such an elegant and simple solution as turning an acrylic pen blank. I turned wood pens years ago and briefly went into mass production to make sets for family and co-workers, then kinda lost interest and moved on to other things. I’ve never turned acrylic, but I might try that at some point.
I like your parametric design. I didn’t have a use for a members drive folder until now, as my only other files were MultiCam CNC files, which are buried on the committee drive. I created a member folder and copied your files into mine.
Thanks so much for taking the time to respond and do the basic design. I think I’ll poke around with Fusion 360 and TinkerCAD for a bit, then circle back around with @Evan_Lott to complete a printing prototype.
Follow the instructions in this thread to get a free Solidworks license as a benefit of the membership:
[quote=“David Tucker”, post:5, topic:53371, full:true"]
To obtain a code send @David_A_Tucker your full name and email address and agree to these application terms:
I (meaning, you, the requester) represent and warrant to DMS that I am now a member in good standing of DMS.
I ask that David Tucker or another authorized DMS person fill out the online application form on my behalf as my agent in order to obtain a download code that will be emailed directly to me at the address I will provide.
I directly agree to these additional terms that are contained in the Solidworks application form:
“Community Access,” “Student Access” or “Student Access product” refers to Student Standard (formerly known as the Student Design Kit/SDK), Student Premium (formerly known as the Student Engineering Kit/SEK), or the 60-Day Trial version of SOLIDWORKS® software.
SOLIDWORKS Community Access licenses available at this website are provided only to Students and Educators at academic institutions that have been authorized by Dassault Systèmes SolidWorks Corporation (“DS SolidWorks”) to offer SOLIDWORKS Community Access; and Students and Educators who have received Student Access for trial purposes. SOLIDWORKS Community Access also includes makers, hobbyists, military, and sponsored organizations
I acknowledge that this agreement supplements and is governed by the Dassault Systèmes SolidWorks Corporation License Agreement (the “License Agreement”), which you have received with your download of SOLIDWORKS and which permits you to use SOLIDWORKS Community Access only for your own personal and academic purposes.
I confirm that DMS has notified me of my eligibility to receive the appropriate SOLIDWORKS Community Access product (either Student Standard formerly SDK or Student Premium formerly SEK). Any download and use of a SOLIDWORKS Community Access product by a person who is not eligible for such product shall constitute a violation of the License Agreement and applicable laws.
Please note that the SOLIDWORKS Community Access product obtained through DMS differs from other versions of SOLIDWORKS software in that the license for such product will expire in accordance with the terms of my download card or the DMS’s particular agreement with DS SolidWorks. Files created with SOLIDWORKS Community Access contain an ‘academic-use only’ watermark.
Just say, “I agree to the Standard Solidworks DMS Application Form Terms and undertakings posted in David Tucker’s reply to the Talk message SOLIDWORKS 2020 Licenses for Dallas Makerspace” in a private message to me, and give me your full name and email address. I’ll then fill out the online form for you, using our super-secret special master code. The email with the 16-or-so-digit individual code should come straight to your in-box. Incidentally, Solidworks doesn’t work on a MAC Operating System. If you use Parallels, though, you can get it to work indirectly.
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Then follow these instructions to download and install the program:
Yeah, I did a million searches for test tubes and everything that I found were metric. I ordered a few 10mm X 75 mm, but they are obviously too narrow for the 9/16" hole that I’ve already drilled. I could find 12mm X 75, but any larger OD jumped to 100mm in length.
I don’t recall if I ever actually searched for 1/2" X 3" (perhaps thinking that even US mfg had converted to metric). Also, I was trying to avoid having to order so many.
oooh, thanks for that input. I have some epoxy that I used to bond some plastic stoppers to wood turned bottle stopper (JB weld Plastic Bonder - high strength structural adhesive, 2 part, 15 min) and some Loctite General Purpose 2 part, 5 min epoxy. I also have some Smooth-on epoxy that I bought at Reynolds Advanced Materials, down the street from DMS. I got it for filling large cracks in wood turned bowls, but it has enormous set up and cure times. What kind of epoxy do you suggest?
Man, it only takes me a step outside of the woodshop (where I barely know enough to be dangerous) to help me to understand how fricking little I know. I suppose that’s the life of a maker, eh?