I ran across this link to Pier 9 and it allows you to download their Fusion 360 tool library for their Haas VF-2 SS. It may not be compatible to our VF-2, but I thought it was interesting to see how they had all the parameters setup for each tool and tool holder.
Perhaps when our coffers are replenished, we can consider something like this:
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/showthread.php?t=206627
FTDI makes some cool DB9 M and F pinout styles of their USB to RS-232 adapter. You desolder the DB9 M or DB9 F connector and replace it with theirs and it has a mini-USB jack on it.
Itās a slick way to update a machine.
Robert,
Are you still using the post processor and tool crib I sent you? If so, it should still print Z min.
See below from one of my files.
O1001 (TOOLHOLDERSMALL)
(T10 D=0.5 CR=0. - ZMIN=-0.5 - FLAT END MILL)
(T16 D=0.5 CR=0. TAPER=45DEG - ZMIN=-0.25 - CHAMFER MILL)
(T19 D=0.3281 CR=0. TAPER=118DEG - ZMIN=-0.5736 - DRILL)
Also, when using the post processor I sent you I never have had the text āP48ā in my code.
Futhermore, one thing that I did notice about the tool crib that I shared with you is that tools 15, 16, and 17 do not match the original number that we used in FeatureCAM. The 1/4" spot always used to be in 16, not 15, and the 1/2" spot always used to be in 17 instead of 16. Traditionally we kept a 0.6" diameter 90 degree countersink in slot 18 and not the 0.8" chamfer mill shown in the new tool crib.
When using the HAAS I always check each tool used in my program as well as verify the tool length offset before running a program. If you use the 2" blue touch off block it just takes a couple minutes.
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I think this is a good idea. I will attend to discuss what I have been doing concerning the class material for an updated HAAS class (which is mostly still at the planning stage).
Instead of spending time on rolling your own lights, consider weatherproof lighting such as:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FSD44RI/ref=psdc_14107631_t2_B007CEVJKW
A light in/near each of the front corners will probably provide more than enough light.
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I was also going to recommend going with light pods to make it easier.
Something like these.
My preference is to get ready made weather-proof lights like the Halogen lights used for outdoor work. LEDās are fine also. But rather than try make them, lets get UL rated lights since they will be in a wet environment. Example: $20 each
This will save time. Let me know what you want and Iāll order.
All,
Using the lights everyone has found is fine, I think we were just going with what was already present and free. If we have the budget or the willingness to order a light - awesome 
Yeah, Iāve been using the same one I got from you.
I said I would ask Walter about the line of code that creates that P48 and see whatās going on there. The math on it is sound from what I saw in the post processor code, just not sure why dwell time would be connected to work offsets.
The tools thing, now that is something different right. I think there might be a majority that likes the idea of changing out tool crib procedures. That said, those tool slots may be empty going forward.
Good idea, but these are not dimmable. I think being able to dim them is important, as sometimes you need light but going to 100% washes out detail.
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Sooooo just like that - Life happensā¦ theyāve moved my office Christmas dinner to tomorrow at 6:30pm (Joy)
Who all was planning to attend the meeting tomorrow at 7pm?
Aye
1234567890123456
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I was coming but am ok with a date change - got lots of Xmas orders to keep me busy. Iāll keep a look out for a yea or nea.
Just throwing that out as an example. Most Machining Centers Iāve seen usually have lights that more spot lights than wide angle - whatās important is whatās going on around the cutter: coolant flow, chip build-up, etc. (then again they were larger The spots still produce an 18" to 24" bright circle and rest is well lit. But I agree lighting is important.
But do want to avoid DIY light & fixture, insist it is one that is waterproof from the get go. Primarily for electrical safety reasons, unless what voltage going to it is 50V<.
The quad receptacle located behind the HAAS Iād like to have GFI installed for where lights plug in unless GFI is present at breaker panel (I donāt believe it is).
( 29 CFR 1910.303(g)(2)(i), generally requires ālive parts of electric equipment operating at 50 volts or moreā to be "guarded against accidental contact by use of approved cabinets or other forms of approved enclosures
Any savings is minimal. Only wiring it in will/should be the DIY IMO. You guys decide on the light and style.
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Anyone else ok with moving the date to the other proposed date of Thursday the 22nd???
There is this odd P48 that gets added to the g-code for G54.
I was looking at the G54 / P48 issue and found this:
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This is a brute force old school approach.
2x waterproof fixtures w/ standard incandescent bulbs. Wattage to be determined.
2x standard dimmers w/ on/off.
Mount lites in/near front corners.
Mount dimmers in box and somewhere near doors.
Run 2 AC lines out the top to dimmer box.
Run dimmer box AC line back over top to 115 vac outlet back of Haas.
Plugin GFI module if needed.
A very quick search of led lites for this did not turn up any that were dimable/ dimmer compatible.
Halogens can work w/dimmer, but not recommended.
Either Tuesday or Thursday night meeting works for me.
No can do on Thursday, but Iāll still be there tomorrow night working on a Christmas present.