Future: Engine swap logistics

The insides of things are beautiful. :+1:

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Just dropped off the following at City Motor. They said they won’t do any machining on anything because it’s too small :expressionless:

Block:
Washed
Remove cam bearings
Remove plugs

Head:
Magnaflux
Flat check
Wash

Transfer case/clutch cover/gearbox:
Wash

That being said, do we have the capability to polish the cam/crank at DMS? Anything that can be done on the lathe at low speed or something?

Are they implying they can’t do precision work? :stuck_out_tongue:

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Cranks and cams have to be ground so they have almost mirror like finishes. The surface finish on a lathe would be too rough.

Grinding is capable of holding higher tolerances. Also I doubt our lathes total run-out probably are outside the roundness tolerances (they are pretty decent, but this is precision work), which is critical since the oil film that separates the bearings/journals from the cam/crankshafts needs to be very uniform so it doesn’t get “squeezed out” allowing metal to metal contact.

I don’t know, but I wasn’t very impressed when they (w)couldn’t give me a print out with the cost of service, like a service ticket or anything. Just a hand written carbon copy note of the work to be performed and a verbal agreement of cost for the above at $150, and the hope that they stick to that. Now to find somewhere that will polish these :unamused:

That makes sense. It’s unfortunate too, because the only other place I could think of, KIP, “doesn’t work on parts, only complete engines” so I’m SOL until I can find a place to do the work

I just got off the phone with H & H Automotive Machine over in Fort Worth and they have no issue doing the work I need done. Guess I know what I’m doing tomorrow!

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Wasn’t trying to be a downer - but you’ve have ruined it on our lathe. Oh, and chucking up, centering and doing the crank journals are a trick as they are offset.

Glad you found a place.

Depending on what you’re trying to accomplish with the polish, it isn’t that big a deal.
Here’s how the pros do it


But us acorn dodgers can get by with a pair of v-blocks and a buddy to spin it, if you have (or make) a power driver for the emery cloth. There are other methods, too (google for them; I’m not recommending them, but they’re out there, e.g. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7DZxqPUQto ).

Mostly be mindful that polishing removes material, so keep it to a minimum, and make sure to mic it out, and that it’ll be in spec even after you remove those blemishes. But honestly, if you’re polishing “just 'cuz yer supposeta”… You might not need it. Clean, yes. Polished? Less important…

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Not a downer at all, I’m always learning and thankful there are folks at the space that know what to and not to do on the machines we have available :+1:

City Motor is just going to clean it essentially ?

You may still want to get the head and block decked - where the mating surfaces are cleaned by removing a bit of material.

Ask the place in Fort Worth to check the head - valve job, stem seals, guide wear, seat condition. If it is too costly to have them do the valve job just have them confirm that the guides are within spec & I’ll help you put it back together.

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Yeah, that’s essentially it. I kind of want to drop by when they open to pick up my stuff and remove them from the equation, then bring everything to the Fort Worth place in the afternoon… Still considering it but dread that interaction of “I changed my mind, I’d like my parts back”

I was planning on lapping my valves by hand if everything was in good condition. There don’t appear to be any nasty deposits or pitting in the seats. I’ve got the paste and stick already, and already got new seals. I kept the valves, springs, keepers and retainers all together per valve just in case.

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Sounds like they have gone further down hill since I used them 5-6 years ago

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I have an hand operated oscillating valve lapping tool you may borrow - it beats the hell out of the “rubbing the stick” between your hands as if you were trying to make fire caveman!

That paste comes in several grits - not sure it you knew that or not…(Clover used to be “The Brand” back in my day).

P.S. Do not use a drill.

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Notes taken! I’ll let you know when I’m to that point. Probably meetup at DMS for a night of this and that engine fun.

I was certainly not impressed in the least. No fault of anyone here for recommending them. Things change :man_shrugging:

I may have some valve lapping compound, Ill have to look. The guys at Oreilly’s looked at me funny when I asked were it was.

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This is the stuff I’ve got. Has coarse and fine grit.
http://minispares.com/product/Classic/Engine/Cylinder_heads/Valves_accessories/MSA1005.aspx?100410&ReturnUrl=/product/Classic/Accessories/Tools/MSA1004.aspx|Back%20to

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I also have a pair of cyl head holders you may borrow - very handy for holding the head off the work table for valve work.

I am up to my eyeballs in work at work - so hopefully you will be doing this after Christmas or would be willing to drop by my store to pick up the tools.

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Either works. I’ll probably be replacing the loom over Christmas, and mayyybe swapping to RHD since I’ve got the parts on hand now, so that I’m prepared to put the engine back in some time in January. I’d happily swing by your shop if it meant doing the job right the first time! And getting to see your shop :grin:

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