I wonder what suggestions y’all might have for getting a flat surface on an end grain cutting board that has warped after the lamination process.
My initial thoughts are to use the drum sander or the cnc machine. But it seems to me that the drum sander doesn’t actually give a flat surface (for whatever reason), and the cnc machine feels like overkill for the small task.
What does the collective woodshop mind think about it?
Low angle hand plane.
the CNC is the best tool we have for the job.
Drum sander is typical approach and should get you ‘pretty’ flat, especially if you go slowly (i.e. no more than 1/16 of a turn each time) and rotate work-piece and try to hit different spots on the sand paper. Do you need ‘dead’ flat for any reason?
That’s a great question. I’m not sure exactly what I /need/ since I am not an expert in the lamination process. But I will be gluing this cutting board to another slab. It is that in-between face that I was trying to get flat. I am sure there is a “good enough”…just not positive on where that is.
OK…if you are CNC trained that might be best bet, then.
But be aware that gluing end-grain to anything else is somewhat problematic (at best). You’ll want to use a polyurethane glue (e.g. Gorilla Glue) rather than a PVA glue (wood/Elmer’s/Titebond), I think. Others might have more specif opinions or experience to share.
Handheld router on a sled with a bottom cutting bit. That’s what i used to flatten the end grain cuts on the stump I use for my anvil.
Shim the board so it sits stable. Set up parallel rails on either side above piece (straight 2x4s would work) and slide sled back and forth across the surface. Lower the bit to make shallow passes. Once one side is flat, flip cutting board over and repeat.
Something like this, right?:
Yep. I added ply vertical supports on the top of my sled for rigidity but otherwise just like that.
Sled needs to be 2x the spacing between rails plus some slop. An 18" cutting board (perhaps 20" between vertical rails) would need a 44-48" sled. Making it a little long allows you to worry less about dropping off rails when sliding router around.
Rails need to be taller than starting piece but not so tall the bit can’t reach depth needed.
Does the makerspace have a handheld router? I’m only aware of the one in the table, and I’m not aware of a base for it.
The Makerspace has two handheld routers. It has a standard Porter Cable unit and another laminate router. Can’t remember which brand.
Smaller of the two (the laminate/flush trim router) is a DeWalt.
I’d suggest bringing/using your own router bits, though.
There is now a third… Triton brand. Big plunge router, similar to the PC.
Edit: elaboration
Of the three described, I’d resommend the non-plunger, non-laminate trimmer one: the Porter Cable.
You’d need to get machine bolts (probably 4) to allow the base to be attached to your sled. Mine used 1/4", 20TPI Phillips head bolts. Length depends on material used and the current bolts. (New bolt length = old bolt length + sled thickness - fudge factor for reseating bold head into sled).
@mblatz, did you get your leveling sorted out? Need me to bring in my router and sled? I’m planning to come to the space Tuesday…
Thanks for the offer, HCD. I think it was OP (@brooksbanister) that needed the sled/jig for that, though.
@brooksbanister, did you get your leveling sorted out? Need me to bring in my router and sled? I’m planning to come to the space Tuesday…
@mblatz - oops!
Just sent you a dm, Mike. Sorry, I haven’t responded until now.