Maybe this belongs in the WOOD category but someone might have other expertise.
I’m trying to fill deep gaps in wood, hopefully with clear epoxy. Does anyone have lots of practice with different situations? It seems to be taking several applications before it begins to stay level.
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let us know a little more about what you are doing. what kind of wood (flat plank, bowl, stump, etc)? What kind of epoxy are you using? what is the end goal? can you provide some pictures? I think there’s quite a few of us who can help, just need a little more info.
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As said above the type of epoxy is important here. Are you using casting epoxy? What sort of volume are you filling, and to what depth (important due to the epoxy giving off heat during a cure.)
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I’m filling in a knothole on a guitar body. I’m pretty sure the hole continues all the way through. Unless there are creative suggestions, I’d like to make the surface smooth and clear. Here is a composite photo showing the knot from both ends, plus a pic of the mesquite spritzed with water to show color better.
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like you said, it might be that the hole goes all the way through, Id tape up the bottom one then do pours based on whatever the maximum pour amount is allowed by the resin you have chosen to use. If you don’t have a resin already picked out, I personally really like East coast bar-top resin for applications like this because you can pop the bubbles using a hot air dryer.
I have a test piece I’ve been practicing on. The epoxy keeps sinking in. Is that normal, and if so can I just keep adding more on top until it stays level?
(And then sand it to match the main surface?)
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Is the East Coast Resin available locally?
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You can also mix sawdust from the wood and/or coffee grounds to make a more solid fill. I did that for the holes in my mesquite table. I aded turquoise stones as an accent.
Here’s the hole.
Here’s the initial fill (coffee grounds with resin, with a wood cutoff filling much of the space):
Here it is about 1/2 full:
And the final result:
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I’m not as resin-knowledgeable as others, but the “soaking in” is likely an indication that the piece of wood is a lot more porous than it appears to the eye.
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That’s really cool! It would be awesome if you could teach a class on how you did that
You can apply multiple layers, allowing each to cure before adding the next. Adding too much at one time risks overheating and cracking.
You can seal the underside with blue tape to prevent (or at least minimize) leakage. It should peel off and allow sanding once cured.
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