Engine Pull at 7PM

Just throwing out the invite, plenty of people will be helping tonight but watching an engine get pulled is good fun.

The car is a 2002 Ford ZX2, it’s got a stripped idler pully nut on the timing belt. We did minor stuff like radiator, intake last night. Tonight’s goal is to get the engine out and start prepping the rigging for the drilling and prepping the Helicoil

Lift is down FYI…

Is that still a thing? Or did it get broken again?

How will all of this affect my intention to change the oil in my Focus tomorrow morning? Is this ZX2 the only econoford allowed in the green square? Will I continue to pose irrelevant questions? Is a donut still a donut if the hole fills in while frying?!

It’s unclear how it’s broken, I didn’t know it was. We’ll look at it tonight.

For the other questions: Either badly or maybe not. Yes. Yes. No.

Guess I’ll have to change the Focus’ oil in the donut shop parking lot then.

It’s not badly broken. The cable got loose and came off of a pulley. I believe the cable just needs to be set back in the pulley and tightened. It shouldn’t take long. I think we’ve had to tighten it once or twice before.

Okay, I’ll get on it tonight if no one else does

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The LIFT is down, not the garage DOOR. The automotive bays are still usable.

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If I’m gonna crawl around on the ground with a jack to change my oil, I’ll roll into my own driveway. If the lift is down, I’ll leave the remaining bays open for other members, and save myself a trip in the process.

The lift has now been repaired. But there is a car on it right now.

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We were able to not only fix the lift, but tension the sync cables, the lift now lifts all at once. When lifting you’ll only hear one click instead of two and your car will remain level the entire time.

Majority of the lift repair done by @somecallmery and @EthanWestern

Oh and we pulled an engine

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The problem is slightly worse than we thought.

I think we’re going to try welding the block to fill the large void left by the previous owner… Now that we have several kilns, pre and post heat should be manageable, however we’ll have to pull the head.

We know that the freeze plus must be removed. The hole has a max depth of .6525, should we fill the entire hole or just try bridging half way?

The cylinder head looks to have plenty of material, but it’s very unknown what’s around these holes. We know the water jacket is quite close…

Aluminum or iron head? I seem to think it was aluminum?

Is the block cast iron? As I’m sure you know, that’s a bear to weld.

Depending on what the “bad motor” issue is, it may be advisable to get the block out of this guy for $50 and put your good internals into it. (Of course, there are 1000 reasons why that may not be an option, but “every avenue” and all that)
https://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/pts/d/1999-and-2000-ford-escort-zx2/6520060415.html

Apart from the repair, any other plans for the engine? Turbo is never a bad answer you know.

The cylinder head (where the work needs to be done) is cast alumnium, I’m guessing something like 356.

Turbo will be happening one day :slight_smile:

If the idler runs into the head, I’d definitely pick up the above head since it’s stated to be good. Dude suggests the whole engine is $50.

I mean still go ahead and try to weld it up, but spares are good to have.

Are you going to try and heat treat the entire block?

If we go with welding, we’ll take the cylinder head off to make it easier to work on.

@suchsojasco yeah if we fuck up a spare will be needed :slight_smile:

I think we should just do like the PO tried, and make a proper bracket.

I’m against it until you can convince me