Continuing the discussion from Drilling hex head in Grade 8 bolts:
Ditto. Perhaps, if you had pictures of the arrangement, we could suggest a tool or tools and methods to help you do this less painfully?
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It’s about to be a nonissue as soon as these new bolts come in 
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I’ve only seen the 12-point for driveshaft bolts. Occasionally, you will see the socket cap (internal hex aka Allen) bolts on CV axle shafts.
I’m assuming you bought the 12-point external?
Every RWD Nissan I’ve ever worked on has had class 10.9 hex bolts at the rear flange, and at the front flange in the case of 240SX and 300ZX models with giubos. (Which are in turn held together with class 12.9 hex bolts) For that matter, first-gen Grand Cherokees have 6-point bolts at the driveshaft u-joint yokes and front t-case output, but on Quadra-trac equipped models, a CV joint is used in place of a u-joint for the front output- it has 12-point bolts.
12-point is a pain. Socket cap is also a pain, unless you have no diametric space and all of the vertical space in the world. At least a hex head can be accessed with an open-end wrench. Which is historically what I’ve had to do when servicing driveshafts.
Try going to Crouch sales for standard (English American) or metric & multi-standard for metric bolts.
I personally don’t have any issues with my 12 point bolts on my rear drive shaft CV on my Jeep. I put on stands & neutral, then spin as needed.
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I have 2 sets of metric ratcheting box-end, 1 set of SAE ratcheting box-end, and then the natural assortment of regular wrenches.
Best believe I always go for the ratcheting wrenches first.