Does DMS have ring bending pliers?

Jewelry/Small Metals
#21

Ah. Ok. Yeah, if you do that opposite-S construction I mentioned above for those four, it’ll be strong enough.

Like the colors, blue/bronze. Nice design.

Agree on slightly heavier gauge since even the first rank will hold some weight

You don’t want to solder anyway because you’d be attempting using a jewelry torch long enough to heat metal but right next to your wood pieces. Wood=burn :slight_smile:

You might could try a lead-free solder with a soldering iron like for stained glass then there’s a patina you can add to color it to copper to blend. I’d do a proof of concept on a sacrificial test piece first

You do want bare wire for that. Coatings will prevent solder/flux from working

Forgot about rockbarrel since I’m usually just there buying shiny things. Might call them before making the trip to see if they have to gauge you want. Or use as flimsy excuse to go regardless :slight_smile:

Another thought for design is looking close at ring lords offerings. They have A LOT of colors, and the mix of diameter/gauge might suit you, plus some of the materials will either have innate hardness or possibly tempered. It’ll say. Plus they’re sawn, so cleaner closure

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#22

Turns out I’m up this way anyhow today so this is the option I’m going with. If they don’t have it oh well. Wood World is right next door too so who can resist?

That was my thought but they have small butane torches that can produce a pretty concentrated flame that I figured I’d give it a go. If it doesn’t work it doesn’t work and I’ll find something else.

You can dye solder? What kind of dye would you use for that?

#23

Butane…it’s still extended time for flame near wood. I’d test drive sacrificial first. And seriously, have a fire extinguisher near. I’d also check with DMS jewelry if you intend to do it there. This feels like a (albeit tiny) fire hazard.

You might get certified to use the hydro flux torch. Soldering with a tiny hot flame in very small focused concentrated areas quickly is what it excels at. Its very good at jump rings. It’s training required. But if you’re gonna try a torch, this would be a good choice

Have you soldered? Just curious. If not, you really need to take that basics class. And also in general, not sure what rules are these days about using jewelry area, assuming you’re not doing this at home

@Team_Jewelry can fill you in on current area rules and maybe offer some alternatives

There’s exists stuff you can put on say a piece of jewelry being repaired with a stone already set that blocks heat transference and protects from flame. But not sure if it’s wood friendly. Someone in jewelry can speak to it

Another thing, soldering copper through wood (again, have my doubts…) your copper is going to be darkened (could be an interesting look…think old penny dark) and normally you’d pickle it, but that’s not gonna work

Re dyed solder
No, what I was referring to is using a patina to turn -stained glass solder- into a copper look. Nothing to do with normal jewelry. Completely different materials and process. There ARE ways to color metal in jewelry, but not practical for in situ jump rings in wood

I honestly think your soldering plan is vastly adding an unnecessary level of complexity

I think the focus is better spent on proper metal for jump rings. If you use heavyish gauge, it could be enough. Or go to half-hard temper from Rio Grande supply if dead soft gauge is still squishy

Also there’s a difference in need for durability based on how often it’ll be worn. Like an occasional costume piece needs a different durability than if it’s daily wear they never remove, sleep in it, and have a two-year old pulling on it. Seriously, toddlers can do a number on jewelry :slight_smile:

Ooooor if you’re really worried about it, that closed loop construction will make it last. The wood will fail before the metal will

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#24

Another approach…

Do the round bits HAVE to be wood??

Given design I’m guessing individual diameter isn’t huge (under an inch?)

DMS has a circle cutter/punch that you could punch out the metal with

Then use the flex shaft to drill your holes, or use a metal hole puncher for jewelry

You can color the metal several ways. Needs appropriate sealer usually, and most methods would need to be done after soldering if you just gotta. But a thinner gauge metal or lighter type (colored aluminum) could negate concerns about weight

There’s alcohol inks for very vivid colors. A bottle is cheap. Definitely seal or it will wear off. Be aware not all dealers are friendly to these. Renwax isn’t (common sealer). I have one at home that is. Gotta look at name.

There’s patinas. But that’s a whooole can of worms.

There is guilders paste. Cool stuff. Need to seal.

There’s enameling. Classes on that soon, I’ve seen mentioned. Again with not soldering afterwards.

Also can do colored pencil (there’s a process, but there’s how-tos and books out there). Seal.

Any color need to do after torching

Ooooor…

You can get brightly colored aluminum or such. They sell them for stamping, dog tags, etc, add a few holes, voila. Plus aluminum is light. Add your holes as needed. Again, back away from the torch. But the goal is weight reduction and low hanging fruit on colorful pieces

We may have a source for tag type things with dyesub folks too. I’ve gotten good deals on amazon.

Hm, might could use dyesub to color. Have to ask them.

All this you’re getting back to solder complicates. But if you reduce weight it might feel less necessary

#25

Let’s over complicate it to the max maker style and teach him to bezel set them! Turn this project up to eleventy (In all seriousness though that would be the best way to approach)

In all seriousness I agree you need to take the hydro flux training if you want to solder this. Ann’s stack ring class is also a good idea for you to do. The teeny butane torches are still quite a large and bushy flame for such a small application. Heat sink material is very much a thing. I have found it expensive and if I REALLY need one for some rare occasion I will just use a potato or wet sand. Definitely practice it first. A heat sink won’t stop it traveling entirely.

If it doesn’t have to be literally wood I’d say take my enameling basics so you get the shade you want without wrestling the whole shebang to learn bezels. Dye Sub only works on synthetics.

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#26

The Rube Goldberg effect :heart:

In all seriousness…THIS little project is half the challenge of jewelry making. You can do amazing things with mixed materials and techniques, but every time you add variables, it adds in elements of planning what to do in which order and which things negate each other or have to be changed.

But then once it’s worked out, and sometimes BECAUSE of some interesting decisions along the way…you wind up with a really neat outcome and learn a lot along the way.

#27

Really think this does not need to be soldered. 18 or 16 gauge wire should hold fine, especially if using half hard. Probably fine even if dead soft.

Some of the craft wires are colored aluminum, which does not work well because it bends too easily. The picture of the product said “copper color” so it is probably aluminum. Possibly steel. Usually stuff is labeled “copper wire” if it is actually copper, even the colored stuff, like Artistic wire or Beadalon German style wire.

If you are looking for small gauge (16 or smaller) solid bare copper wire in small quantities, usually an Ace or Tru-Value hardware store is your best bet. Lowe’s and Home Depot don’t usually have it. There is an Ace hardware store on Josey and Valley View, where I often get mine.

Even solid copper and the hydroflux torch would pose a fire problem with wood or any plastic disc, if you tried to solder it.

And JSM has a pair of ring bending pliers, but they will mark your metal in most cases, and are not always the right size. Mandrel is a much better idea for wrapping a coil to cut 80 or more rings. Count on needing a few extra. Let us know if you need help with this.

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#28

I have a crap ton of 18g copper wire you could buy what you need.

#29

So you wouldn’t solder at all? How do you prevent the rings from opening up again? I’ll be using 18g copper.

#30

Well, that’s where several of us have agreed that either decently small/thick gauge and keeping the rings as small as practical is one way to minimize them opening. Nothing is indestructible, but there’s diminishing return for extraordinary overkill at some point. Soldering mixed with wood approaches that.

Test one…connect your pieces with various whatever variables and pull. See how much force it takes. Try a group.

Don’t forget in chainmail you don’t solder. It’s the collective group of the rings that distributes the force and gives strength.

The other is use half-hard for more strength (or go to an innately stronger material, copper is inherently softer than a lot of things).

Half-hard is my strongest recommendation, and Sue above agreed. I think Amanda and Cairenn likely do too. We all mess with this stuff and know how it acts. That being said, I always encourage a person to experiment and not blindly take someone’s word. But this IS a good direction for you, I think

Try your soft ones first. Maybe it’s ok. But if not, try stronger wire. And half-hard isn’t a miracle difference, but it’ll be noticeable, not mushy like the craft stuff you have

If you want half-hard, you will need to specifically order it from a place like Rio Grande. You won’t find it locally unless Rock Barrel happens to have some. But unlikely.

18g (.040”) half-hard round from Rio, $19 for 1lb spool (contains 202ft)
https://www.riogrande.com/product/Copper-Round-Wire-1-Lb-Spool-18-Ga-12-Hard/132655

Btw, if you get that and have leftovers you’ll never use, I will buy the remainder. We can just weigh/extrapolate leftovers

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