internal i would guess?
Owen, I have my old Matco or Hazet ones at home - give me an idea of when you might do the work on your vehicle and I’ll lend them to you.
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Rob,
I appreciate the offer and give you permission. please let me have a copy of the results for reference.
Thanks for the positive support!
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Thanks Tom - I thinking Monday or Tuesday in the morning. I need to use the press to remove the hub and the bearing, then repress the bearing and hub in.
I’m working out the correct dimension on the press discs to make sure I don’t screw up the new bearing.
I’ll touchbase with you to confirm this weekend.
Thank you.
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Haha … I’m a bit fussy about tools and tend to be a little anal on torques.
But yah, at the end of the day a little too tight is better than a little too loose! 
Adding to this: If the chair is notified that a tool is taken offsite for special reasons like calibration or repair - this in my mind, is not “loaning a tool” for individual use offsite. People take saw blades and other items off site to be sharpened, straighten and repaired. This is doing some for the Space - and thanks.
I don’t think this is a problem. Just let some people know in advance - then your intent is never in question and we know where the tool is.
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In the “olde” days when I worked on cars that were made of better / heavier materials in the drive train (in the European world) some rear drive axle nuts were spec’ed at 255 pound feet of torque, but if the castellated nut didn’t line up over the hole for the split pin/cotter pin - then yes, the factory notes said to keep going to the next available (no torque limit noted).
when in doubt read (yes READ) the factory specs…
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Tractor techniques, employed here. 
Ah the ol’ rear hub nut on the VWs (among others, but that was the most prevalent on these here shores…)
I do recollect 1’ cheater bars and two scrawney teenagers bouncing on them to get them loose, back in the old days (see, in MY time, we didn’t have the “e” any more…)
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Pinion nut & crush sleeves. I opted on my rear Dana 44 to with shims instead of a crush sleeve. I think ish 250-350 ft lbs, interesting trying to torque on your back in a driveway.
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Can’t stress this enough. I took one of the power supplies home from Electronics (the 19" wide HP dual power supply) to fix but cleared it with the chair at the time - @Lampy
It was fixed and returned, but the chair knew where it was the whole time. This is very important.
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Good Communication is a great thing !
2/5ths of the leadership would agree
Interesting piece of hardware there…reminds me of the a pliable washer used under the nut of the tail rotor blades on an AH64 where there is no “torque” measured via a wrench - the nuts are tightened to the point where the washer is crushed to the point of being visible from the shoulder of the nut.
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If they are being made inaccurate by mishanling, are they repeatable?
May be worth doing some of this ourselves
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Good way to do it, the physics are sound.
The advantage of a load cell is you can demonstrate run-on torque and breakaway torque. Important concepts in learning proper torque techniques,
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Did he take in to count the weight of the wire and connector in his calcs?
Don’t know your budget, but he best I’ve used for internal 3" are…
or
All the cheap, stamped, “reversible” and “adjustable” type units from various brands can all go straight to heck.
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Thanks, I was looking at the knipex angled ones too. The price is right.
I’ve used the reversible channel lock ones and ended up just being pissed off with the quality.
I own a few knipex tools and like everyone of them.
Knipex are the Rolls Royce (Cadillac for you American car folks) of pliers
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Supposedly real nice, but hasn’t been reliable since “your man james” became too expensive untrustworthy to maintain and so you chose to keep the butler instead?
Thanks for the recommendation. I ended up buying these Knipex pliers. They worked great and the quality for the price is great.
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