I’m looking to install a new ball on a hitch for my truck/trailer.
Manufacturer recommends a couple of specific tools:
1-7/8" thin-wall socket (the one’s I found for sale are for a 3/4" driver)
Torque Wrench capable of 430 ft-lbs of torque (and if so, does the driver size match the socket?)
Do we have any/all of these tools available? AutoZone has a 1/2" torque wrench available for loan, but not the socket, and the drive size is mismatched.
Using a large monkey wrench seems like a poor substitute.
Why a thin-walled socket?
To get the proper torque, one would need to use a socket and a torque wrench on the ball nut. The socket would wrap all the way around the hex nut. and the attachment point has a dip, so the clearance between the hitch and the nut necessitates the thin-wall socket rather than a regular socket.
Why use a torque wrench at all?
One can tighten the nut using a vice and a monkey wrench (or two monkey wrenches), and I have done that before, but you can’t properly measure the torque that way. Since I’ll be hauling live cargo (horses) the stakes are a little higher than with a load of gravel. I’d like to insure the ball is installed as per spec rather than just flattening the lock-washer and saying “good enough.”
I’ll also be using a torque wrench to install other components of the anti-sway, load leveling hitch on the trailer itself.
Interesting. I’m not a fan of lock washers, they don’t do much for holding power. We’ve known this for quite some time. I haven’t yet seen conclusive evidence for whether or not Nordlocks are any better.
Short of a strongman, I’m not sure many people can put enough torque on that with 2 adjustable wrenches to yield a bolt of that diameter. Chains are a decent failsafe too.
I think I have done all my tow ball installs with a nearly 2 foot long box wrench and as much force on the wrench as I can muster, usually far past the lock washer going flat. I don’t think I’ve ever had issues with the ball spinning, but maybe I’ve just been lucky.
I’ve only ever used a monkey wrench for hitches. I don’t think the torque wrench at DMS goes that high but it might. I think the socket and torque wrench that goes that high are both things that automotive should have if not already.
The AutoZone guy I talked to said that they had a loaner torque wrench that goes that high, but stated it was a 1/2" drive. He may have been guessing (either about the size, or more likely about the top torque range) since he answered immediately.
Since DMS does not have a 3/4" drive (good info - thanks @lukeiamyourfather), I think I will drop by AutoZone and see the torque wrench in person and determine where to go forward from there.
Since the ball comes from the manufacturer with a huge lock washer, I’ll use it.
I’ve not lost a ball, but I have had one come loose while NOT under tow (I leave the hitch installed when not in use - lot’s of vibration in 100K miles).
Since I don’t plan on ever removing the ball once it’s installed, one option is to tack-weld the nut in place - that’ll keep it from coming undone. Lock-tite is another option.
Curious. After the nut and washer are installed, is there enough protrusion to drill a hole and safety pin it? As long as the hole is past the nut it won’t impact the strength.
Alternatively, if enough sticking out, after torquing, jam nut it.
Like those that have posted below - I’ve yet to see a hitch ball, load leveling unit hitch / anti sway or any receiver from 1 1/4" to 2 1/2" get installed with a torque wrench.
I’d suggest a local hitch install specialist.
Hank, if you go that route and actually find one that uses a torque wrench for the ball install please let us know how it turns out for you.
Reminds me of safety wiring the 4 sets of 3 fasteners that hold the “jesus” nut on an Apache helicopter - the good old days…
Here’s irony - civilian contractors can use “safety wire pliers” as shown in the video above, but those in the US Army may not - the wire must be tied by hand.