Do we have tools for installing Trailer Hitch Balls?

I’m looking to install a new ball on a hitch for my truck/trailer.

Manufacturer recommends a couple of specific tools:

  • 1-7/8" thin-wall socket (the one’s I found for sale are for a 3/4" driver)
  • Torque Wrench capable of 430 ft-lbs of torque (and if so, does the driver size match the socket?)

Do we have any/all of these tools available? AutoZone has a 1/2" torque wrench available for loan, but not the socket, and the drive size is mismatched.

Using a large monkey wrench seems like a poor substitute.

I always use two big crescents. Is this a different set up? I can’t see why you need a thin wall socket.

Why a thin-walled socket?
To get the proper torque, one would need to use a socket and a torque wrench on the ball nut. The socket would wrap all the way around the hex nut. and the attachment point has a dip, so the clearance between the hitch and the nut necessitates the thin-wall socket rather than a regular socket.

Why use a torque wrench at all?
One can tighten the nut using a vice and a monkey wrench (or two monkey wrenches), and I have done that before, but you can’t properly measure the torque that way. Since I’ll be hauling live cargo (horses) the stakes are a little higher than with a load of gravel. I’d like to insure the ball is installed as per spec rather than just flattening the lock-washer and saying “good enough.”

I’ll also be using a torque wrench to install other components of the anti-sway, load leveling hitch on the trailer itself.

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Interesting. I’m not a fan of lock washers, they don’t do much for holding power. We’ve known this for quite some time. I haven’t yet seen conclusive evidence for whether or not Nordlocks are any better.

This has a good synopsis, decide for yourself: http://www.boltscience.com/pages/helicalspringwashers.htm

Short of a strongman, I’m not sure many people can put enough torque on that with 2 adjustable wrenches to yield a bolt of that diameter. Chains are a decent failsafe too.

I think I have done all my tow ball installs with a nearly 2 foot long box wrench and as much force on the wrench as I can muster, usually far past the lock washer going flat. I don’t think I’ve ever had issues with the ball spinning, but maybe I’ve just been lucky.

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I’ve only ever used a monkey wrench for hitches. I don’t think the torque wrench at DMS goes that high but it might. I think the socket and torque wrench that goes that high are both things that automotive should have if not already.

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Looks like anything rated that high is all 3/4 inch drive. I don’t think DMS has anything 3/4 inch drive.

The AutoZone guy I talked to said that they had a loaner torque wrench that goes that high, but stated it was a 1/2" drive. He may have been guessing (either about the size, or more likely about the top torque range) since he answered immediately.

Since DMS does not have a 3/4" drive (good info - thanks @lukeiamyourfather), I think I will drop by AutoZone and see the torque wrench in person and determine where to go forward from there.

Since the ball comes from the manufacturer with a huge lock washer, I’ll use it.

I’ve not lost a ball, but I have had one come loose while NOT under tow (I leave the hitch installed when not in use - lot’s of vibration in 100K miles).

Since I don’t plan on ever removing the ball once it’s installed, one option is to tack-weld the nut in place - that’ll keep it from coming undone. Lock-tite is another option.

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Curious. After the nut and washer are installed, is there enough protrusion to drill a hole and safety pin it? As long as the hole is past the nut it won’t impact the strength.

Alternatively, if enough sticking out, after torquing, jam nut it.

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OT, but awesome:

Safety wired nuts are really cool.

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When I first read the title, my thought was, “You need special tools for these?”

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We don’t have those items

Like those that have posted below - I’ve yet to see a hitch ball, load leveling unit hitch / anti sway or any receiver from 1 1/4" to 2 1/2" get installed with a torque wrench.

I’d suggest a local hitch install specialist.

Hank, if you go that route and actually find one that uses a torque wrench for the ball install please let us know how it turns out for you.

Reminds me of safety wiring the 4 sets of 3 fasteners that hold the “jesus” nut on an Apache helicopter - the good old days…

Here’s irony - civilian contractors can use “safety wire pliers” as shown in the video above, but those in the US Army may not - the wire must be tied by hand.

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I had to google this. Aircraft mechanics.

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For those of us who had no idea.

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I was looking at some smaller helicopters over the weekend and was worried about the belt drives. Maybe that shouldn’t be my main concern :wink:

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I started off on Hueys…

Then came Apaches - they are a completely different animal - still have a "jesus not tho, about the the size of a small Frisbee.

See Page D-21 in the link below (for those that are really curious or have trouble sleeping)

http://gomotherrucker.com/mem/fdrgifhsnu4/ah64/MTP_Student%20Handouts/ROTORS_&_VIBRATIONS[1].pdf

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I actually enjoyed that. Most of it makes sense to me.

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Lol, you always have a chance at autorotation If altitude permits without the belt. Not so much without the rotor. :flushed:

that’s what I was thinking
:wink: