DMS Racing: Lemons MSR Houston May 2017

We are meeting thursdays to get the 240sx ready for the upcoming May MSR Houston even, anyone is welcome to come help with the build (the driver roster is already set for the event)

Most obvious thing we will be doing is redoing the theme of the car, it was a blue shell from mario kart, instead we will paint it safety orange and mount the pulse jet to the top to make it a “jet car”. In addition we will be fixing some things with the rear suspension and leaking diff

Started off by removing the previous vinyl stickers

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Will you be allowed to have it more than “decorative?”

During the race it will just be decoration, a 120db+ propane fueled open flame would not pass tech inspection.

We are a few fellow DMS members with a racing team in Chump/WRL. We did some welding job at DMS recently.

Best of luck at MSR!

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At 120dB+ it just might drown out the other cars.

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How was the driver roster selected?

I selected the members who already put hundreds of hours into the car and are funding the car 100% to drive at the upcoming event, we will be going for a strategy to win the race (vs just being out there racing as in the past). Anyone is welcome to organize and fund entering the car in a different event/series after this one.

Reminder! Work on the Lemons car will be happening again on Thursday at 7pm. Come on out and help if you’re interested in automotive or want to help with the new theme and decorations. Once we repaint, we’ll need new vinyl cut numbers and logo/DMS advertisement all over the car, so even if you’re not automotively inclined we can put you to work :slight_smile:

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I’m interested in helping out with the build, unfortunately I just saw this post. I’ll keep checking this post for the next day work is going on.

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Work nights will be every Thursday night between now and leaving for the race on May 4th.

Tonight they worked on the rear suspension and there will be more of that to come in the next few weeks. @Brandon_Green can share what else will be on next week’s agenda :slight_smile:

Starting working on swapping out the rear suspension bushings (seemed like a good idea since were already replacing the rear toe arms after one got bent after some contact last race).

New press worked great to replace one of the bushings, but it took more force than I expected to press out the old one (12-14 tons initially). Installing new one was easier after heating it up to around 400 degrees. Bushing is about 1.200" and the hole is about 1.185"

Ran out of time for the night so there are still 11 bushings to go, will make some custom sized die/cup to make it easier to align and press out the remaining ones.

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Brandon,

Next Thursday I’ll bring in my assortment of cups / sleeves from my various bearing / hub tools. Maybe some of them will work for your bushing project.

If the old bushing is completely shot - as in the center falls out - the outer wall of the bushing can be cut with a metal saw (hacksaw, air powered or recip) once the sleeve is cut, removal is much easier. this method is very handy on vehicles from the rust belt.

Pressing them in - the tough part is getting the arm or link perpendicular to the ram. Often more difficult than most think. Using the press to “align” them can result in less than satisfactory results i.e. deformation of the arm or link, or premature damage to the bushing itself.

Are you going with stock bushings or the rattle your fillings out poly bushings?

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ROTFL, newer poly composite bushings aren’t that bad old man Tom :wink: I have had much better luck drilling out the old bushings

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For a track car poly is great - no creature comforts should be expected…or if no budget there are always spherical ends instead of bushings.
For a daily driver - there are very few poly bushings that I’d recommend to anyone.
For me I prefer stock - from other make and models (when possible-very possible in the European models) that are direct replacements for less durable or too soft (bushings, mounts, links, some tie rods(yes tie rods) and last but not least “modern” clutches for those that have a 3rd pedal.

A daily driving grocery / soccer / commuter is completely different than a dedicated track car.

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They are Megan racing brand oem style hardened rubber, should be stiffer than the ~22 year old factory ones. Found them for a good deal on ebay, I think they should be similar to poly bushings but not certain. We did replace the original subframe bushings with poly bushings when we first got the car as the original ones were falling apart, getting those out required a lot of burning rubber and sawzalling

I looked for a bushing set on amazon that would help after the fact, but the ones I could find do not go as small as needed. So I ordered some 1/4" wall dom tubing off amazon that will just need a bit of lathing.

Similar we also realized will need to remove ball joint so I ordered a set of ball joint seperator tools for auto that will be in next week.

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What sort of ball,joint separators?
Are the the “pickle fork” style or the threaded ones that are a little more forgiving?
Just curious

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004I6PZFM

and/or
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018LMAVBG

(Based on the links)

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Thanks!
I didn’t see the links

Poly bushing technology has really advanced in the last 10 years, now the METAL bushings are insane…

Tonight was a build night, and we were able to get quite a bit done. The rear of the drive train was pulled and almost completely disassembled. The A arms, control arms, and axles were removed. Several of the bushings have been replaced. The two ball joints were stubborn, but once the right tools were put in place, they came out without a hitch.

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