From yesterday’s committee meeting… This is basically the setup I was describing for deburring. The combo of the wheel and disks is really great. The disks are actually really reasonably priced. I’ll be picking up a couple for home to try.
6" Silicon Carbide Deburring Wheel (MSC): https://www.mscdirect.com/product/det… 8" Aluminum Oxide Deburring Disc (MSC): https://www.mscdirect.com/product/det…
I have a baldor 3600 rpm buffer with a silicon carbide wheel that came on a smaller buffer I got at an auction. I use it all the time for duburring. CDC products usually has purple scotchbrite wheels, i have one of those on my smaller buffer and use it to take surface rust off parts. The machine shop has a buffer grinder near the scrap metal bin that could be used for this. It’s 1750 rpm. I prefer my 3600 rpm. A buddy in dripping springs has three of those monsters. I think it has babbit bearings, the oil ports were plugged with grease which I cleaned out a few months ago. We need a small bottle of heavy weight oil to add a few drops before using it. I read somewhere that 90 weight gear oil works with babbit. My friend said most of those grinder/buffers came with babbit bearings but many got converted to ball bearings.
Painted parts will clog up the silicon carbide wheel so if we get a deburring setup it needs to be locked and require training. Its also easy to wear a groove in the wheel so you have to keep small parts moving across the entire face of the wheel, mine is 2"wide
Babbitted bearings were originally used for the engine’s crankshaft of my 1931 Ford Model A Roadster, I used regular 10W30 oil, not the synthetic types. At 50 MPH the engine ran at about 2,000 RPM in high gear. Several years ago I had the engine re-machined for modern insert bearings, still use 10W30. 90 weight oil is still used in the ring and pinion gears of the rear end.
Edit: Added the corresponding quote for subject clarification.