DC/DC LED driver IC

I recall that a few years ago, one of the power electronics companies - Meanwell I want to say - came out with a drop-dead simple LED driver. I remember it being in something like an old-school 8- or even 16-pin through-hole DIP package with a mere 4 legs: DC power in/out and LED +/-. Current level was baked into the design with no external components. They were pretty inexpensive too at about $2 each.

My Google-Fu is weak and I can’t find these. The Meanwell LDD-L series is close to what I want, but priced at ~$4 each and a tad larger than is convenient.

Does such a beast exist or am I misremembering?

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This site is good for LED drivers especially if you are running off automotive batteries and cheaper but bigger
http://www.prodctodc.com - lots of good stuff, long wait time.

This is what I’m using IP67 - DC 7-22V => DC 3.3 - 12V 10Watt @$3.80 should cover the range of all LEDs but http://www.prodctodc.com/waterproof-dc-722v-to-33v12v-step-down-converter-car-power-supply-module-p-143.html

Lots of options from TI. Find what you want and I can get you some samples

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Does TI make any with cases?
All I see are chips and open boards
Car Battery => 12V
1 Amp - 12 Amp range
Maximum 1.25 inch dimensions

This is for an outdoor lighting project. ~8 years ago I built up some under-eave LED lighting over my driveway with 4 compact fixtures of my own design sporting triple 4000K LEDs. It’s worked without fail continuously in spite if less-than-ideal heatsinking. I used AC-DC LED drivers to drive pairs of the fixtures in series.

I’d like to replace the entire setup with ~10 fixtures covering the driveway and the other two sides of the garage. I’ll be changing out to something like 3000K LEDs and also include some optics. I’d also like to drive the LEDs at varying currents - some below the nominal ≥300ma that these devices seem to start at.

Were I going to go with DC-DC, I have a source for the Meanwell model I cited earlier. Less than $4, and compact at 0.88" x 0.39" x 0.35". Compact is important - I’d like to fit the whole shebang - LED MCPCB, optic, current-limiting device - into housings that are ~1.25" in diameter and ~3/4" deep.

Since I don’t have an interest in rolling my own drivers (oftentimes with 3-12 outboard components), will be supplying stable ~12V DC anyway, I might just roll with the humble resistor.

I would be OK with a through-hole DIP package that I can solder leads to. But not so much SMD nor something that needs a bunch of accessory components.

It’s also possible that what I want doesn’t exist and I am indeed mis-remembering.

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All I know of that small and still fit in there for controllers are these.
You can pair multiple I believe up to 4 in groups together.
Since you have like 5 amps per channel x3 for RGB
You could use one channel per 3 lights and change their brightness and color to what you want to get the different levels

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/rgb-led-controllers/rgb-led-controller-w-lc4-connector-wireless-rf-remote-w-dynamic-color-changing-modes-5-amps-channel/3050/6263/

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/rgb-led-controllers/mini-rgb-controller-with-rf-remote-dynamic-color-changing-modes-4-amps-per-channel/1261/2932/

The present setup has a 2x2 J-box with the AC-DC drivers inside. Plan is to put a ~5A 12V DC power supply inside for the DC bus. I can replace the existing J-box with something larger if necessary. Current-limiting will be done at each fixture. Drive currents can vary per fixture, but each fixture will have a single drive current that never changes.

That RGB controller could do what I want in a hack-ish way. But 24Vout max (also implying 24V input; less common than 12V) doesn’t sum neatly with 3-up LED boards at ~9V total Vf - each channel will only be two fixtures. Since it’s intended for RGB strips, odds are I need current-limiting at the LEDs anyway. Lastly, it also uses PWM dimming: its specified 190Hz will present stroboscopic effects.

Its actually anything from 5-24v so 12v or 9v is fine.
Just get a few of them and be done
Look closely on the sticker
IDK about 190Hz but I like to party
Honestly I don’t think it will be a problem as monitors are 60Hz
It not noticeable with pixel lights or rgb.
I doubt just white would be a problem

I have one of these at Makerspace if you want to try it out

Sounds like you could easily put together a popular class on your past projects and future plans! I need outdoor lighting and play with electronics but don’t know the difference in a 3000K and 4000K or some of your other terminology. Post a class…I’m in.

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Ever passed by LED Christmas lights and watched them flicker across your vision? Or a car with LED tail lights as you scan your vision rapidly? Drives me up the wall.

Same deal with PWM dimming. LED Christmas lights are typically 120Hz because they just pass full rectified AC across the diodes. And unlike a monitor that refreshes the image at 60Hz, the LEDs go from 0-100%-0 due to their ~microsecond response time. I’ve got flashlights using PWM for lower modes with refresh rates markedly higher than 190Hz and it’s noticable whenever the beam crosses something shiny.

I’ve thought about it, but time constraints are killing me. 9+ hours a day on the clock, 90+ minutes commuting, home life all make their demands on my time.

EDIT:

So a picture is worth a thousand several thousand with megapixel inflation words:

The present system, covering the driveway. Spits out more markedly more light than the twin-head floodlamp fixture that was originally located at the J-box location and does so rather evenly; the white garage door plays a significant role in this. The whole system is nominally 1200 lumens while consuming perhaps 15W.


Detail of a fixture. Literally a 3-up LED MCPCB, a cheap aluminum sample jar, and a chunk of aluminum barstock all adhered together with thermal epoxy. Pigtail from each pair of fixtures connects end-to-end in the J-box with respective + and - leads going to a microdriver. They’re not pretty, but they’re also quite low profile and barely visible from the street. Next iteration I expect to remove the other wire along the trim and the wire channel so I can snug them up as close as possible to the trim.


Edit 2: And since I’m up stupidly late for work anyway (don’t work in production support IT, kids), here’s what it looks like at night, looking little different than when it was installed in December of 2010 going on 8 years ago.

I am seeking to do something mechanically similar to this, only with 10-12 fixtures. Due to difficulties I experienced when first installing this system, I’m not interested in compound series of LEDs and intend to limit current on a per-fixture basis. A simple DC power supply (or two) of sufficient wattage should be ~$20 all told. 1W resistors are extremely cheap. I’ll eat the driver savings and more on quantity and optics; I’d like to do wide spots on the corners and elliptical floods for the rest.

My thoughts exactly. Especially tail lights.

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So you got the wheels turning and I’m fleshing out an outline for a class. Or maybe a blog posting. Stay tuned. Production of class and/or blog post not guaranteed and this offer is not valid in Nebraska.

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