@william_petefish and I machined some adapters to replace the two C type alkaline cells in an illuminated magnifier with a single 18660.
It’s a two part piece due to our current boring bars, made out of aluminum.
Made on the Colchester lathe from cutoff aluminum (i.e. dirt cheap near scrap aluminum).
Cheers,
-Jim
Turned out so amazing Greg. I need to get you the fett to get your board up and off the counter.
this was etched into acrylic using a diamond drag bit. the 2nd pict shows it illuminated a bit with some leds in the electronics lab. This was just a prelude to working with cnc for the plastics group and with the glassworks committee for creating either something frosted without the use of acid and/or an LED lit sign and what the CNC will do for them. cheers!
I think your horse is on fire 
Pretty design. What are the pros/cons of etching acrylic this way versus rastering on the laser?
Excellent question. This is created by etching in a crosshatch which you can control to create a difference in contrast. This crosshatch is very tight so not a lot of difference between it and the laser. Once I move this to glass it will make a difference as you you lasering glass doesn’t work well as it frosts by creating micro fractures vs this which will scribe lines. Cheers
Made this child chair as a gift for my cousin and his boy. First time trying inlays with the Multicam. Turned out pretty nice!
One con is the time it takes. I think this was a 4 inch picture and it took about 51 min. Pro looks awesome
My walnut is sooo not lined up. are there any tips for that?
the box is beautiful!
Just got my first welding project back from powder coating. I didn’t do the powdercoating but I cut and welded this desk base. Will post pictures next week once the desk is completed.
@brsims, @JohnK, and I spent some time after Sunday’s Open Forge trying to work out how to make hand-forged sleigh bells. Mostly successful and we got some jigs and tooling made to help, but we were very slow; barely finishing before dark. Hopefully the next ones will be faster.
Here’s mine. Pretty rough, but I’m ok with it as a prototype. The next one will be a little better I think.
We made one of many strandbeest legs (It’s a start)
Next workday will be November 20th if you’re interested in helping out.
https://calendar.dallasmakerspace.org/events/view/8701
Please note multicam might be present to film - still waiting to hear back so if “they” are still looking for you and you don’t want to be filmed please tell them beforehand.
I’ve been following instructional videos from http://www.notesandvolts.com and I’m trying to make an “Auduino” Synthesizer.
The first step was to breadboard an arduino and then transfer it to a protoboard (veroboard was cheaper so I went with that)
I could just buy an arduino for ten bucks, or a nano for 5 but this solution… uhhhhh… ok so I probably should have just bought a handful of nanos but this took me 2 attempts and resulted in a MUCH GREATER feeling of accomplishment. After I got it working last night I didn’t want to go to bed!
BEHOLD!
MY DIY “ARDUINO LYTE”
I’m far more proud of this ugly lil board than I ought to be. I know, I should have used black wire for my grounds but all I had was red.
You could have made a far worse choice. A few folks on the Arduino forum have used bare wires for such things. They are a sight to behold. But, as expected, somewhat fragile.
I don’t see bypass capacitors.
What function does a bypass capacitor serve?
This is going to be the core of a lil standalone synthesizer, whoever came up with the schematic decided to leave them out on purpose I suppose.
In fact the version I was looking at left out the status LED and resistor, but I needed them as a sanity check before I move on to adding the pots.
Black sharpie will fix that (red wires)
Heheh, I actually did that after I took the picture just cuz.
