I built a little dashboard for the house to show drive times, weather, combined calendars, some actiontiles and a current newsfeed - oh and full screen interactive weather radar. 24" touchscreen with onscreen keyboard and sticky notes section.
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Needed some large dominos for a project I’m working on, but the woodshop was out, so I made my own out of some scrap hard maple I had! Planed the board to 10mm, cut them 26mm wide, and used a 3/16th” round over bit to round the edges. This leaves about ~125um error at the crest of the domino curve compared to a true 5mm bit, but I’m pretty sure this is within the error the dominos are manufactured with. The domino stock I made fit very snug, so I’m happy.
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Took @Lordrook’s 2-part ‘Pen Mold Making/Resin Pen Blank Casting’ class. Mold & Pen Blank (pictured) allowed me to make this pen, which contains Cypress needles from my backyard. And that’s not white spots on the pen; That’s reflective metallic powder inside the pen. 
Fun class & highly recommended!
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Neato, Ryan. If you have any issues with the joint, please let us know. I believe Festool uses Beech and scores their dominos with intent: 1) Beech is softer and absorbs moisture from glue better, and 2) the scores/lines/ridges help ensure there is enough glue in the joint; tight, flat dominoes tend to scrape all their glue off on the way in. But great idea and thanks for the guidance.
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This is actually a huge area of debate:
http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tool-reviews/domino-strength-test/
I actually plan on doing some tests for fun to see how the strength compares. The debate seems to be that those scores/lines cause less surface area for the tenon to be in contact with the mortise. Should be fun to try out anyway…
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Three cherry wood chairs, 1/12 scale, unfinished. I need one chair, which will be painted white and “aged”. This is more or less a replica of a chair from my great grandmother’s kitchen, circa 1936. The other two chairs are spares for some future unknown project, so they will remain raw until I decide where to use them.
Since set-up is half the work, it made sense to make a couple extra chairs while I was doing this. OK, correction. Everything is angled; everything below the seat has compound angles, and the front and rear legs are different angles as well. Making the assembly/drilling fixtures was half the work. Set-ups were another 20%-ish of the work. Actually making the parts was a fairly small percentage.
I used the DMS lasers to cut components for pin routing fixtures. I milled complex angles for the holding/drilling fixtures using a Sherline mill (mine) with a vise rotating plate and an angle plate (all of which we also own here).
Each chair has 15 turnings; 0.040" diameter at the ends of the 11 smaller spindles/stretchers. All of those (and beaucoup extras!) were turned using a lathe duplicator on my Taig micro-lathe (similar to the Sherline). (A lathe duplicator is conceptually similar to a key cutting machine. It takes a light hand and some manual clean-up). I’m glad I chose cherry wood, even though the chair will be painted. The cherry held up well on the tiny turnings.
EDIT: Finally painted/aged this thing. See below.
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This is a (removable) extension table for my sewing machine. The top was laser-cut at DMS from 1/4" Baltic birch. Many thanks to @Kriskat30 who showed me how to use the new router to round off the edges. It’s not fancy, but it’s sturdy enough to support a nosy 20-pound feline helper. 
I also laser cut some echo guides that press fit around the ruler foot.
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Tonight I (mostly) finished my 5 point harness bar for my gen1 Ridgeline.
The bar is made out of 1-1/4" x 0.120 wall Chromoly tubing, with 3/8" plate conforming around the existing restraint bushings on the B-pillars. The tubing was bent in the metal shop (just ask if you want training on the bender!) and the angled struts were cut on the notcher then TIG welded in place.
Photos taken fresh out of the oven from a powder coat and after reinstalling it. It currently has one coat of Black Jack from Prismatic Powders). I’m debating if I want the next coat whether it is going to be another layer of the black, or one of the clears. (got a lot of color swatches on the way).
I had also welded some nubs to prevent the harness inside-shoulder straps from slipping down the tube before buckling in, which was problematic beforehand.
Cheers,
-Tails
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This makes me want to get on installing the roll bar in my MR2.
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Add this to my ‘things I didn’t know I wanted’ list. Good job!
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The fake Dichroic class is easy and fun. Lara is a great teacher!
I got supplies online and made this!
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How much does a touch screen like that run? What are you running all that on? Just debian or ubuntu?
Let me know. Wood glue is so strong I cant imagine a properly glued joint could be that different
I modeled up this bracket for my car stereo, then plasma cut it and welded the bends because I forgot to get soft aluminum.
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I would love to learn how to put something like this together. Do you have an estimate of cost, or any info that someone could read up on if they wanted to make their own?
You can buy the kit here: https://www.rockler.com/4-in-1-screwdriver-turning-kit.
The bubinga you can buy at Rockler, too or use another hardwood of your choice.
I wish replies were posted as nested comments. Sorry coloneldan, I was replying to black3806 about his home tablet project. That bubinga does have a really pretty grain though. Now I know what I want to use when I start remaking the interior trim in my classic mini 
Thank you for the link all the same!
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