A post was merged into an existing topic: Hydro thermo siphon - Help me
Youâll need to take it apart and put back together after afterwards to ensure âno contact pointsâ 
Where are the welds?
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The welds are right here on another project.
Seemed to still get crap in it even though I used acetone.
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I started this sometime in the late spring. My wife saw something she liked at Crate and Barrel and made the mistake of not just buying it right then. âI can make that,â I said. (Link to the ârealâ thing: https://www.crateandbarrel.com/lisle-wall-art/s215151)
Can and should are two vastly different things, my friends.
The first step was, I took the CNC router class (thanks, @AlexRhodes) and passed my test (thanks, @cghaly). I bought some 2x10s and 2x8s and jointed and planed them down to 1-inch thick. I used a picture (and dimensions) from the website to design the pieces. I cut all the pieces on the Multicam - the parts for the lattice were all done there, including the dadoes for the overlaps. It took multiple trips to the space because Iâm terrible at estimating my time.
And I had some help one day from @cghaly when my pieces were moving around and he kindly pointed out that a) my bit was loose and b) I had the dust collector too low and it was bumping my stock. Thanks Chris! EDIT: Also, @tapper helped me out a couple of times when I was wandering around the wood shop looking confused.
I took all the pieces home and separated them from their tabs, then brought it all back to the space for sanding on the spindle sander and belt sander. Then back home for finishing.
Then life got in the way. Death in the family; trips to see our kids; a parentâs big milestone birthday; vacation (I highly recommend hiking with llamas). Not to mention oppressive Texas heat in my garage, where Iâd be doing most of the finishing work. Somewhere in there I managed to glue-up the lattice, after adding to my clamp collection. Doing 49 glue joints with only 4 âdecentâ clamps was not on the agenda.
Finally kicked it back into gear in October. Stained everything. Finished everything with polycrylic (for less odor). Then started assembling.
Anyways, itâs done, and hung on the wall, and now I can start something else!
Tips - make sure all your dimensions make sense. All the little fiddly bits wound up a little undersized versus the lattice compared to the original. Not by much, but 1/8" off on one piece adds up when you line six pieces up in a row. Câest la vie.
To add insult to injury, the first time I tried to hang it, the hanging hardware tore out of the back of the art, so I had to make one more trip to the hardware store.
And no, I will not make another one. If someone wants the files, though, Iâll gladly share them.
Imgur album of some progress pics: CLICK HERE!
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Very cool. Now sheâll be saying âToo expensive - you make it!â
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Baby quilt for the wall for my nieceâs new daughter - or why you need a lathe and lasers for quilting!
My niece had made a special request for a Disney-themed castle, so I designed a paper-pieced pattern then assembled it. I used SewArt64 to program the embroidery (disclaimer: I did not program Tinkerbell). Tinkerbell has mylar beneath her wings which add opalescence and shimmer. I laser cut freezer paper for the turret and star applique´s and fabric for the name appliquÊ. I used the Creative Arts heat press to attach hot fix crystals. The sky is quilted with metallic thread that sparkles in the right light.
One of the first things I had to do was turn spool inserts so I could put large spools of thread on my sewing machine.
I also created the âfairy wandâ hanging rod. The star was laser cut. I turned the rod ends, and slotted one end to hold the star.
This type of binding is a serious nightmare to construct. The first thing was to make about 20 yards of fabric-covered cord. I laser cut an acrylic template to use with my rotary cutter to trim the quilt corners before assembling the binding.
If you ever want to make this binding ⌠contact me (and Iâll talk you out of it!)
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Yâall are kinda good at this stuff, you know it?
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Unfortunately no one else was able to come out to last nightâs Stop Motion Goof. so I worked on this alone (iâll try out some different days to see if people can make it in the future). So I decided Iâd challenge myself. I think the weakest part is the camera framing of some of the shots.
It took about three hours to make and I guess one and a half to edit. I really wanted to add sounds and music but Iâm not really an audio artist.
Hope you enjoy!
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Now there is something you never see 
Quilting, laser cutting, and turning parts on a lathe in the same project post! Only Chris could pull this off.
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Finished the seats for the deer stand last night⌠Luckily the stapler I gave to Vector was still around as the red one in the big red toolbox should meet the fiery forge and be hammered into slag.
![IMG_20171110_215904447[1]](http://dms-discourse-static.s3.amazonaws.com/original/3X/0/3/03ba973c87b9747b4debfae720dbd048c9a7450a.jpg)
David Jett and I drove out to the ranch and installed them in the stand today, but you really canât see them very well as the pic was taken from the top of the ladder.
The bottoms turned out nice and the first seat back was done differently than the 2nd. The 2nd one turned out much nicer, but both work just fine.
To give you more perspective, they are in here:
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Hey James â Absolutely beautiful! Thanks for the kind words. 
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Getting my sister plastered.
Please donât try this if you donât know what your doing, your model can get seriously hurt. My models always sign a waver.
Needs to slow dry at least 3 weeks before I bring in for firing.
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Is the radius tool DMS property, or is it yours? Does it require extra qualification?
The radius tool is part of the DMS machine shop. There is no extra qualification needed to use it - HOWERVER, it needs to be used in a proper fashion. I thought I had posted the instructions but it was for the radius tool on the big lathe. I will be there Thurs - Sun evenings if you want a quick demo. Offer open to anyone wanting to use itâŚ
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What @nicksilva says!
This radius-cutting tool pivots vertically over the top of the turning, unlike a conventional radius cut tool which operates horizontally. Consequently, it is crucial that the work piece needs to be long enough so the radius cutter doesnât hit the chuck jaws. My piece was about 1.5" long and the cutter was precariously close to those spinning jaws - probably 0.050" or less from the jaws. I would suggest 2" as a minimum. Also, there is nothing to prevent it from swiveling backward and hitting the chuck jaws while they are turning so you have to be constantly diligent while you are using it.
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The work in progress for the induction cooler. I thought I would share what the grill looks like. It is stainless about 16 gauge.
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My snowman from Jeff and Angelaâs class. This is my first turning project ever!
I opted for stubby arms. Now it just needs little steampunk goggles on the hat, and a few coats of finish.
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Too many apples from @uglyknees so made apple crisp.
They look dark but it must be due to the white counters.
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