Cutting up band saw blade

Metal Shop
#1

So I have an old bow saw that I need to create a replacement blade for. I have ordered a couple of Starrett band saw blades that I can use as stock for the replacement blade, but will need to cut the blade to length and drill two small holes in the blade for the retaining pins.

In the past, I have annealed the ends of the blade to allow for cutting and drilling; however, I would prefer not to this time. I have ordered some carbide bits along with the blade to allow drill the holes.

My question is does anyone have any suggestions on how to cut the blade without removing the hardness of the metal (say by using a cutting wheel)?

#2

In the past, I’ve use Dremel tool attachments.

1 Like
#3

Cut off wheel is how I’d cut it.

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#4

Shears might cut it, something like aviation snips.

#5

@andrew337

Nope, you will damage the blades on the shears.

#6

Carbide or diamond tipped Dremel bits and plenty of coolant?

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#7

When cutting blade stock for a bandsaw, one uses the attached shear. Why would this not be the way to do the job of cutting to length?

#8

It’s pretty common, I guess it depends on how stout of a blade you bought. Don’t get me wrong, I wouldn’t go using my favorite pair of snips…

#9

What is this attached shear you speak of?

My understanding (which is limited) is that bandsaw blades are hardened steel (Rockwell 50-55), and hence can damage shear blades.

#10

First page, bottom left of the pictures, shows the blade shear, part no 870-51.
There should be one on the bandsaw in Machine shop, if I recall correctly…

Similar to this, but smaller and attached to the saw.

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#11

The Powermatic 87 has a cutter on it. Honestly it doesn’t cut @ 90º, but it seems to cut the exact same angle on both sides.

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#12

Pretty sure that’s intentional.

#13

You are correct. More surface area, brazing it together makes the joint stronger.

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#14

Plasma cutter? High amps and go fast to minimize the heat affected zone (HAZ).