Hello All
I am trying to figure out the best way to go about this and could use some advice. I want to create a DM screen out of wood with the grain continuously through all 4 panels. I want the panels to be 12x12x1/4in and to get the continuous grain I plan on cutting a 2x12x12ft board from Home Depot
I can’t figure out how to get to 1/4in thickness except going through the bandsaw. Any advice would be appreciated.
The process you are trying to do is called “Resawing” https://www.finewoodworking.com/2011/04/22/how-to-resaw-on-the-bandsaw-video
The bandsaw really is your only option with something 12 inches wide.
Note: if using pine when you cut down to 1/4" it will warp on you quite a bit. Might I suggest using 1/4 plywood and just framing the plywood with real wood to not show the edges. Just my 2 cents.
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Hey thanks man, I will take a look at that. Maybe I will use a better wood, or Maybe you could show me an example of “using 1/4 plywood and just framing the plywood with real wood to not show the edges” Anyways thanks again:+1:
Construction lumber is not really 2" wide, but 1.5". It’s not really 12", but 11.5". The claim is the loss in size is because of the drying process.
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If you resaw on the bandsaw, you need to check that the fence is square to the blade drift, not the table.
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I thought that the posted sizes were the sizes before trimming up?
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Because the preferred method is resaw along the “2-inch” side, the table saw can do this. There are blades out there with thinner kerfs which might be suited for this. But the bandsaw is (probably) still the better tool, when properly set up. But table saws tend to be easier to get “square”…
EDIT: Everything I said was wrong, except that those blades exist.
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I nearly made this same mistake on my shed project planning the outer frame of 2x8s; 2x6 and below are [trade size]-½" on the width while 2x8 and above are [trade size]-¾" on the width.
That table represents the nominal dimensions you can expect from delivered product. Pressure-treated lumber will tend to be slightly greater than nominal at the lumberyard and shrink as it dries.
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Is this, effectively, what you’re wanting to make?
Here’s a video talking about making it look “less plywoody”, if that’s the desire (like what @AlexRhodes mentioned, but slightly different)…
Here’s a page talking about edging plywood in different ways.
http://www.aconcordcarpenter.com/applying-solid-edging-to-plywood-edges.html
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Yeah that’s a good point by the time I hit the Bandsaw it will be 11.5in. the end product will probably be more like 10.5x10.5x1/4in panels
For a thin panel, I’d think plywood would be the way to go - better strength and overall stability due to cross-grain veneer orientation.
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The way I interpret this, he wants a bunch of boards that are 1/4" x 12" x 12’ - that means the table saw would need to make a (nominal) 12" tall cut.
I think what you’re proposing would give him tons of boards that are 1/4" x 2" (ok, 1.5") x 12’.
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You’re correct.
I misread the drawing, and my brain continued to misfire.
Should have kept my nose out of the re-saw convo.
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You could use the table saw to rip smaller pieces, and then glue those up.
If you end up going to the plywood route and need edge banding, just ask me if you see me at the space. I’ve got edge banding for maple and walnut that you can have free of charge for your project.
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I thought 2" nominal was 1-3/4", not 1-1/2".
It used to be 1-3/4" nominal. Nowadays they are about 1-5/8" and frequently less.
Maybe that’s because I buy them at cheap places like Home Despot …
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Apparently there is a long history of this confusion. Basically, the dimensions differ based on wet/dry and some tolerance is allowed for non-parallel sides.
I just want to know what they call 2x4’s in Europe. 50x100’s? Or is there even such a thing?
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