Custom Duct work needed

Hi,

I’m in need of some custom duct work for a kitchen hood vent, and I was hoping you all could provide me with some suggestions for who to go to for help.

My current ductwork is on the left side of the opening and was an old down draft vent. The new hood vent is an under cabinet mount and has an opening in the back and top available but it is dead center. The folks I’ve had here to install it say that custom duct work needs to be done to connect the new to the current duct.

Your help is appreciated!

Can you provide a diagram or a couple pictures? Is the range on an inside or exterior wall?

Pics of existing duct work. It is meant for a downdraft cooktop. I am trying to install an under cabinet hood vent and connect the 6” round on top of the hood vent to the existing duct that is 10.5” square and sitting on the left side of the cabinet. The current duct goes up through the attic and out the roof.

The 6” round opening will be in the center of the cabinet when it’s installed.


The down draft opening in the lower cabinet

Thank you!

This is how they did it in our house

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What you will find in most homes is the cabinet will have a hole cut in the center of the top and the duct goes up to the cabinet into the attic. I have installed cabinets where it goes straight up/sweeping connector, and then a 45 through an outside wall.

I looked through my installation pictures and only found one that shows the vent. It is just so common and you tend to have a single clear path.

My inclination would be to run it into the attic and then tie into the existing vent ducting. I would most likely orphan the duct work that is inside the wall. The sweeps and length will be dictated based on the distance between the pipe. Flexible ducting isn’t my first choice. You might end up connecting the two sections in the attic with a couple of these gently curved into place.

duct

I have also ran vents through outside walls similar to this.

FYI. Brick isn’t usually an issue, just make sure to seal it after the outside vent is installed.

Note: Make sure you are clear of the ceiling joist before beginning to cut any holes:)

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To answer the who question. It would normally be the person that installs your vent. To call someone out to just do this aspect will probably cost you a couple of hundred dollars plus materials. A cheap handyman will probably do a cheap job. Cheap is, as cheap does. You might regret the little bit of money you save now, if things were to go wrong in the future.

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Thank you!

Is there a particular reason you would “abandon the current ducting” and tie in at the attic? I’ve been told this is more involved option and I’m trying to understand the why’s behind both options.

Also, the handyman I had out said I needed an HVAC or custom duct person. Maybe it’s just a matter of a different handyman….

Thank you for all your help, truly appreciated.

There are a lot of questions and assumptions here.

Is this first floor of a 2 story section of the house? If so abandoning the current duct and changing in the attic probably isn’t the solution.

Is this the outside wall of a single story section of the house? There might not be any reasonable height to work above the cabinets in the attic.

Even if the other factors line up, where are any joists vs the straight up alignment? It still may require a jog to one side or the other, though that would probably be stock parts at least.

So true. :slight_smile: We work with what we have.

Room in the attic to work, what a luxury. Just need a skinnier attic rat.

I did ask if it was on an outside wall.

Sometimes you have rely upon the home owner to filter things. I wouldn’t approach things this way with one of my own clients. I wouild visit them.

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Monica,
Brady is correct regarding assumptions.

I’ll assume since you didn’t say running a new vent tube through through the ceiling would be outside of a wall in the room above, we are dealing with a single story home. The other thing is that the wall most likely isn’t load bearing due to the duct cutting through the plates.

More assumptions.
When you current ducting gets above the ceiling joists, it will probably return to a round shape. I just don’t expect a rectangular vent going out the roof:) You would connect round to round.

If possible, I would rather abandon the in-wall ducting, thus removing it from the system. If you don’t the exhaust fumes will be pushing both ways. I expect there is a technical reason not to tie-in midway, it just seems hacky to me and much more involved.

Your handyman was correct in backing off. Fabricating a flange out of sheet metal and connecting it to the current duct isn’t something something done easily if you don’t have the gear and don’t commonly do this type of work. Connecting two round ducts should be a piece of cake for your guy. Just emphasize that you want it installed properly, screwed together, then taped.

Another reason. MONEY.
If you can purchase off the shelf parts and assemble them, you will save money. Possibly lots of it.

Possible issue.
When the fur down was built, they may have placed a support board right where you need to go through. We don’t know yet. This is where I would bring out the inspection camera, drill a hole, and take a look around inside. You would also visit the attic and consider any blockers up there.

So, even if the attic is clear, there isn’t a joist in the way, the fur down could cause grief. In such as case this isn’t a blocker, just a bit of additional work to clear it. The dry wall weight would transfer down to the top of the cabinet. You would want to verify that the vent cabinet was tied into the surrounding cabinet very well, four screws, along with the verifying the nailers where used on both the top and bottom(those little long pieces of wood that go across next to the wall). Screws are only ten cents(not black drywall screws). BYW, I really can’t tell much about the cabinet construction or installation from the photos. Maybe none of this matters. Your crown looks nice.

Feel free to take picture or two in the attic of the duct work. We in the peanut gallery would be more than happy to provide you with more useless opinions.

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The back wall of the kitchen is to the garage. Single story and the attic area is easily accessed, full height in that section. I’m not sure about joists.

Thank you so much for all the information, I am truly learning a lot.

To tap in from the side, this is the part you need, along with some fire-retardant mastic:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Master-Flow-6-in-Starting-Collar-Take-Off-Snap-Together-SCF6/100396966

( Size chosen at random. Pick on that matches your hood. )

If you have room for 2 90s, you should be able to get to that from the hood.

To install, you cut a hole into the duct to match the start collar. Insert the fingers thru the hole, push it up flat against the duct, the reach thru and bend the finger outward.

Then - and this is important - cover the joint inside and out with the mastic.

As for the existing duct below - not sure about that. You could probably seal it off with a piece of appropriate duct board inserted via the hole for the start collar. You’d want to seal that with mastic as well.

I think the appropriate mastic is designed for fireplaces. The intent is to contain potential grease fires.

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Thank you so much! That makes perfect sense to me.

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