Cold Cut Saw for the Metal Shop

Any talk about getting a cold cut chop saw for the Metal Shop? Evolution makes a nice 15" one for about $500.

Evolution Power Tools EVOSAW380 15-Inch Steel Cutting Chop Saw

I think Lowes/HD sells a less costly version for about $200.

I think machine shop already has one.

Can I take 8’ of angle iron out to the machine shop to chop some 45s? That seems unsafe. Or could I bring the saw into the metal shop, then put it back when done?

Owen, I suggest you ask this question of the two respective committee chairs; @dallasmagna and @Photomancer moving tools is in their purvue.

I am guessing the answer is no. But more importantly we do not currently have a working chop saw for STEEL. The recently acquired cold cut saw is not currently operational.

We have a couple. The dry cut saw that is behind the HAAS. The cold saw that is not operational yet. & then the abrasive cut off saw in the metal shop. The abrasive saw blade at last check was getting smaller. So you may have to change the blade.

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…and it is doubtful you will want to take it into the metal shop to use and put it back when done…

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Sounds good Walter. I don’t like the idea of carrying steel back and forth and moving tools around either. Seems unsafe for all involved.

I am a big advocate for Cold cut vs abrasive. I’m building furniture quality table legs and a cold cut saw makes really nice clean cuts without all the burrs, etc. I have a saw, I may just bring mine in.

Just to clarify:

this is a cold cut saw:

It circulates coolant whilst cutting, keeping the material and blade “cold”. They are usually considered “industrial”, and the one we have is definitely considered inop.

This is a “dry” saw:

no coolant; special blade, works dry, and has lower speed than “miter saws”, which are intended to cut wood.
Works well for virtually any metal, and “miters” decently.

and this is an abrasive “cut off” saw:


They work fine, but heat the material significantly, don’t really cut “miter” very well, and spit dust EVERYwhere.

The “dry saw” behind the HAAS is for soft metals only (per the blade imprint) and is generally considered “unsafe” by everyone but me, it seems, due to the “high speed” (it’s a wood “miter” saw).

For history’s sake, here’s one of the more active threads in (fairly) recent history surrounding this type of thing:

I’d love to see the “dry saw” style purchased for the 'Space (and it has been bandied about several times here on Talk, as well as in person, the former easier to search), but many are opposed to it, generally for “safety”. I disagree, but I’m not running the show. :smile:

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Lol … I wouldn’t be moving the machining cold cut saw back and forth!

@jast thanks for specifics. I can always count on you for accuracy in tool descriptions!! I’ve always called a “dry saw” a cold cut saw. :nerd_face:

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ain’t no hill for a stepper…

same here. which is why I got confused when “real” cold cut saws came under discussion (because I’d never heard of coolant for one!) so I created this compendium to help me understand. :slight_smile:

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Mmmm, just like real tools should do: fiery showers of molten metal. :slight_smile: :wink:

You could always use a hacksaw, btw.

Or, a thermal lance!

Ok, now I’m just getting off topic.

When I was working, cold cut saws were used a lot to ensure a smoother surface (cut pieces used in forgings) but also because they were more consistently straight/flat cuts and they ran very cool. Very important in cold forging not relevant so much in hot forging. But they make nice cuts and are able to cut surprisingly fast because the teeth and gullets are much larger than a band saw.

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Of the tools actually on hand, here’s the way to do what you want


now that Tim has (again) stepped in with a fix.