I was trying to use the chop saw today and I had a hard time getting the blade to come down. If I REALLY pulled on it I could get it to come down, but this seemed out of the ordinary so I didn’t use it.
@IanLee
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someone should check if the teeth are good or gummed up but there are times when you simply have to do it in ‘steps’. Cut, raise, cut again. Rinse and repeat.
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It has a release to come down. Typically, pulling the trigger is the key. But I believe there is an alternative that does not require engaging the motor.
Here is the deal on the chop saw.
Uneducated users have bent the linkage that holds the head up when parked. To normally release the head you press both green buttons on the handle. The Kapex keeps the head high when not in use in order to take advantage of its ability to cut extra tall stock(crown molding) in the nested position. This allows it to have the same vertical capacity as a 12" inch saw when cutting tall crown moulding in the nested position. I’m not sure of any other saw with this linkage, as. most saws just pull straight down. Last night when the saw wasn’t releasing properly for a member another member came over and acknowledged there was a problem with the saw, but not to be concerned, just pull down harder and it will snap over the roller. The knowledge being passed from member to member is a wonderful thing until it isn’t.
Hopefully the saw will last through Christmas so all those cutting boards can be made, otherwise folks will be forced to learn the nuances of a cross cutting sled.
Images from the Festool and Garret Wade websites showing the head both up and down.
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@Team_Woodshop
Is this the official solution? Or is the saw officially down for now?
Just pulling harder seems like a very bad solution too me
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It is still chugging along. If users that are made aware of the issue and taught the proper way to release the head, we might make it through the end of cutting board season. I expect if we were busy like last year, the saw would die within a week of use.
Maybe we should consider a level II course on specific equipment so folks will understand all the knobs before they start twisting. They just see a miter saw and assume they are all operated the same.
unless the width of the board is >10" there is no pulling to do. Just chop.
@nicksilva - Unlike most miter saws, the Kapex locks the head inan up position between cuts. The user is required to depress both the triggers and the unlock button in order to lower the head, unless they just decide to jam it down.
Want to learn what this saw can do?
Check out this Festool training video. Be warned, the trainer is both full of knowledge as a long term trim carpenter and cabinet maker, and also full of energy. 99% of the member will learn something by watching this video.
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@SWA I don’t see the issue you’re describing. To me it looks like the safety pin is not moving enough when the primary switch is engaged.
In the first picture here you can see the safety pin is in the protected position, preventing the guard from moving:
In the second photo here, the switch inside the finger guard has been activated and this pin has moved, but not enough to allow the guard to pass by:
To me it looks like the armature between the switch and this pin needs to be adjusted? I don’t see anything that’s bent on here. Help me out?
The clear plastic guard had mushroomed slightly due to pressing into the safety pin repeatedly. I lightly filed it back into shape and this should be fixed.
@swa can you show me what you mean about a bent part? That must be a separate issue?
For reference, I was using a different Kapex(unabused) today and it was very smooth when lowering the head.
When the user presses both of the green buttons on the handle(green button on top and power trigger, the head is unlocked and allowed to be pulled down into the material(most saws don’t have this step), they just pul down. This should be a very smooth operation. My experience with our saw was that with both buttons pressed as designed, the head wouldn’t pivot down without forcing the bracket over the hump.
Consider it like a loose tooth:) It will probaly become looser with use. Who knows, maybe you fixed it.
The metal roller on the arm was having trouble getting over the hump. This is common on kapex saws that get heavy use. It was never bent. The arm was lubricated a few days ago as per festool service recommendations. This, in addition to what Ian did yesterday, clearing the path of the blade guard rotation, has solved the issue. I’m not sure if you were referring to me when you mentioned that another member said to “just pull down harder, not a big deal” or not. That was never said. I explained to you, and the member who was trying to cut some wood, what was occurring with the arm and roller, and that you had to pull the head down in a forward downward angle in order to get the roller to clear the hump. You are mistaken if you think in any way that I would have encouraged damaging use of a machine. I don’t appreciate having to spend my time explaining myself on talk either. Does heavy use and abuse of the Kapex happen? Yes. Probably every single day. But not by me. So next time you feel like complaining on talk, make sure it’s not about one of the members who cares most about the well being of the tools.
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That wall of Systainers…