do we have any tools for plating brass? I need to make a small crown, and am planning to just cut the pattern out of this
and roll the crown around a form. But i need to close the seam, and can’t seem to find any brass solder, so I will have to use silver solder, and need to rebrass the seam to i still looks good
Consider one of these:
a little pricy for what I’m looking to do. That almost double my materials cost, not just for the ornament, but the whole project as well
Where you can get plating solution. Not cheap.
https://www.caswellplating.com/catalogsearch/result/?cat=0&q=Brass+Solution
dagnabbit! do you know if i could try hot brass brushing it? I know that works on steel, not sure how well it would work on solder
no idea how it would reaction with the various solders and the metals they are made from.
If there is any decorative items that go on the outside of the crown, silver solder it (strong joint) then place the item to over the seam. Any that may be showing touch with Brass leaf paint
This is cheap enough to test out. first. Also if located at back of crown, less noticeable.
The 45% silver solder I use has a light brass/silvering. Depending how much you use, it could harldly noticed. However 45% is not cheap either. If you need a little bit, I’ll give you some. I have it in the Roll & stick. The stick is easier to manage though in my opinion.
I need to close a 1/2" long seam on .015" thick metal
You might try brassing the joint with a 100% brass wire brush. Heat to moderate heat (not even glowing) and then rub vigorously with the brass brush. If too hot, the brass will burn off but if less spicy, the brass will transfer to the part.
We do this in Blacksmithing to color steel. Here’s a brassed steel example @brsims did a year or so ago:
That’s what i was talking about with hot brass brushing. I’m just not sure if the solder will melt or deform
Try soldering a piece and immediately brushing it once the solder freezes. Worth a shot.
Have you thought about just using a cold connection?
Cold connection?
Not soldered. There’s tons of types, some subtle and some with decorative aspects…maybe a u joint kind or tab?
not really sure if that would work for a 0.015" thick sheet. I and was really hoping for a seamless joint
Rivets peined over with a hammer - done cold.
where does one get really small brass rivets? Could I make them that small?
Make them out of brass rod.
An easy way is to clamp two pieces of angle iron in a vise, then drill a hole through the crack in between, making two half circle holes the size of your rod.
Clamp the brass rod in between and pien a head. Remove halves from vise to release the rivet.
Works with brass and copper. Works better if annealed first as they will work harden.
Cut to length( overlong), install, and pien cut end while backing the initial head with an anvil, anvil horn, metal plate, or iron pipe.
Here’s an image of a similar tool made from bar stock with bolts to hold the halves together, but illustrates the basic idea.
Angle iron is easier, IMHO.
I work in metal this size all the time. You’re going to have a beast of a time trying to get a soldered butt joint with no overlap - holding it is going to be the hardest part.
Get a bunsen burner stand (with the wire mesh). Clamp a thick piece of aluminum bar on top. Place the pre-formed crown against the bar, and clamp another bar onto the stand so that the crown is pinched between the bars. Solder won’t fill a gap so the edges are going to have to touch. You should be able to get your torch inside the crown to draw the solder down into the joint. Then place the crown onto a dowel or pipe to hold its shape and grind/polish the solder joint nice and clean and flat using a flex shaft tool or Dremel.
Regarding cold joining/rivets …
At the size that you need, this is overkill. Anneal a piece of 1/32" dia brass rod, and use the torch to make a slight drip on one end. This drip will flatten into a head when peened into place per Mike’s instructions above.
You will likely need a very small punch to peen your homemade rivet because you probably can’t get a hammer into the inside of the crown.
I suppose you could pass the rod through a #66 hole and pre-peen the drip into a head but I haven’t found that to be necessary.
