Brake Suggestions

Automotive
#1

So it’s finally time to replace the brakes on the Jeep, after driving with a fully loaded trailer through hills for 1200 miles, and now constant braking on large hills I’ve finally eaten through some of the rotors :D!

I was going to do Calipers, Rotors and Pads, but I think I’m doing some axle swaps in the near future. So my question today is just about Rotors and Pads.

Do “Coated” rotors make a difference? Especially now that I live in the rust belt?

Is there realistically any difference between Budget and “Performance” when it comes to a hunk of metal and a asbestos filled pad?

#2

Back when I had a Jeep (Grand Cherokee) I had bad problems with warped rotors. I went with a set of Powerstop Rotors (cross drilled) and never had another warped rotor.

Anything you can do to help fight rust is a good thing so unless you can wash the vehicle regularly during the periods where salt/chemicals are put on the roads then go for the extra protection.

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#3

I’ve always preferred ceramic or carbon pads when they are available.
When paired with new rotors, they last longer while offering better braking.
The rotors last longer too.

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#4

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Ceramic!

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#5

Massive upgrade over factory/stock. That’s a solid setup and you will notice a BIG difference.

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#6

I recently changed rotors and pads on my vehicle…went with Powerstop pads and Centric rotors, as they were recommended by experts I trust. No issues so far (although it’s only been about 1000K). But I certainly don’t expect any problems.

The good thing about using RockAuto like you are is they give you choices, but they don’t offer any crap, so it’s hard to go wrong as long as you know what level of performance vs price you are wanting/needing.

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#7

Might I suggest not going with Home Depot paint sticks.

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#8

Thanks for that Tim!!!

Luke,
Coated rotors where you live now aren’t a bad idea - of just put a little anti sieze on the hub to rotor mating surface so that the next time you go to remove a rotor it is not corroded to the hub like it was welded on (works well on those that have rear drums as well).

new rotors and a set of ceramic pads would be great.

#9

If you do pull a trailer, semi metallic would stand up to the weight better.

#10

I pull a car trailer with my truck and much prefer ceramic over organic or semi metallic.

To each their own.

#11

I go camping annually towing a small trailer with my Toyota van, I drive conservatively and downshift going down hills and around hairpin turns to conserve the brakes. I know these brakes are not great as they will fade if driven hard. Nonetheless, I have only had to replace the pads twice in 180,000 miles and still have the original rotors.

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#12

I grew up in Michigan. Your rotors aren’t at a huge risk of rusting out. The frame will rust out twice before the rotors do. You’ll get surface rust, but as soon as you tap the brakes it’ll be gone.

Do make sure to put some anti-sieze on the back side before mounting, unless you’re a fan of pulling out the torches to get your rotor off.

I would suggest getting a decent underbody coating if you want the car to last, especially if it’s pre mid-2000’s.

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#13

Yes to all of HoarseHorace suggestions. My 2001 Dakota lived in Illinois until 2015 and has the underbody rust to prove it. It only has 101K miles but has had rust thru on brake lines, rocker panels, fenderwells and even the spare tire hoist cable. :frowning: The rotors are fine though. Ziebart and others will offer rust protection with a warranty, but you have to take it in annually for an inspection. Its not cheap, but if you want to keep the vehicle a long time, its worth investigating.

#14

Always lube your slide pins… One was completely seized on the front passenger…

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#15

That is…if your calipers are so equipped.

#16

Interestingly enough, I bought new calipers, and the bleeder screw is leaking on both calipers, tonight I cleaned up the driver, pulled it off, inspected and bled it. Well see what happens…

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