Drove the car every day for the past several days with no issue. Today noticed the check battery light was on. Also noticed burning/smoke smell inside cabin, so popped the hood and saw smoke clearly being created somewhere inside engine compartment:
The glare was making it hard to see, but upon reviewing the video I see a split something (tube? wire protector?) directly in the vicinity.
Can I get some help interpreting or diagnosing, please?
That look like its coming from your Alternator. Question is, is your alternator going bad or do you have say a bad cell in the battery thats causing an over current issue.
But for this
I would expect the smoke to be from oil (spilled when adding, or from camshaft cover gaskets) hitting the exhaust.
Smell would be an important input that we’re missing here. If it smells plasticy, then it might be wiring; if it smells rubbery, it might be something locked up on the accessory drive (alternator) smoking the belt; if it smells oily, then we’re back to spilled/leaked oil.
As for the split something
I think that’s a wiring loom, and, though I wonder what abraded away the adhesive cover in that spot, I imagine it’s not related…
That’s kinda what I thought. I am not actively planning anything, but given my general lameness regarding cars, is replacing the alternator something I should undertake myself in Auto shop, or bite the bullet and take to a real mechanic?
Is this something folks at OreillyZone can determine for me? I guess I can call, but they’ll just say “come in” no matter what, I am guessing.
But if my records are accurate, it looks like the battery (EverStart Maxx 24F) was replaced new in August 2018 at Walmart…lol, just outside the three-year “free” replacement warranty. I can have them take a look-see, I guess.
If I was pressed, I’d say the “burning electrical stuff” smell, but…I as mentioned I am a little non compos mentis when it comes to some of this stuff.
I drove 10ish minutes to HomeDepot to get some stuff, which was when I noticed light, then drove 10is minutes back, by which time it was pumping smoke.
I can’t think of anything that would have touched or been near it recently, but I also have no idea how long it has been that way.
Real question is: can I drive it this way for short periods, like to O’reillyZone or Walmart?
If I had to guess that wire loom was probably under that bracket at some point & just started chafing the loom.
Burning electrical is kinda hard to explain the smell but once you know what it is, it’s very distinguishable. It doesn’t smell like rubber, oil, clutch/brakes burning.
If the physical access isn’t too burdensome - i.e. removal of accoutrements such as the belt, anything else in the way - then it’s a reasonably straightforward job to replace an alternator. Assuming it’s at fault.
Disclaimer, I’m an idiot, you probably shouldn’t trust this advice.
Assuming it’s the alternator, which would explain both the light and the smoke, then it’ll only be drivable until the battery runs out of juice. It’s also possible the battery is bad, and was overdrawing current which caused the alternator to be unhappy. If you’ve got a multimeter, check your battery voltage and that should give you some idea.
Will do, although it’s maybe moot…when I went to start the car to go into Walmart, it was dead dead dead, as in won’t even lock/unlock with keyfob.
Sigh…
That could mean it’s the battery and not the alternator. Maybe was just overdrawing which caused the alternator to be unhappy. So, possibly a good sign for an easy fix.
Well, I wouldn’t say that quite yet. If the alternator was smoking, I’d be concerned about the alternator prematurely failing.
Agreed, but I can at least get the battery replace while car is just sitting there. If it’s not that, then I guess that would just leave the alternator at that point. I hope.
What I’m getting at is, its more likely to leave you stranded if its not replaced.
This is starting to sound more and more like a positive to ground arc dissipation to me.
I would be willing to bet that the 8 gauge (or larger) positive current cable that goes from the alternator to either the under hood fuse box or battery has worn through and is arcing somewhere on the motor.
That would explain the smoke, battery light and how quickly the battery dissipated all power.
Yep…I totally am on board. RockAuto has Denso (OEM) reman’d part for ~$120 (after core rebate and before all related shipping)…so that’s digestible enough for me.
I doubt I can handle this repair on my own, but I know a really good Auto Repair shop/top-notch mechanics out in east Allen I’ve used before, so I’ll probably take it there if they can get me in and out in a reasonable amount of time.
Aside, should I risk hooking up the new battery? If so, do folks think the following is a reliable internet guide to checking my (smoking) alternator:
That’s certainly cheaper than a (out of pocket)tow truck.
Well…sigh…I’ll still probably need to get it towed somewhere to get it fixed. I am trying to remember if I have roadside assistance or anything like that.
Been doing a little research/reading…it sounds like I should go ahead and change the alternator belt and tensioner at the same time…right? My car is a 2007 and has about 120000 miles on it.
It is a good time to do them, as the belt will be at least most of the way off anyway. It seems like many of the idler bearings are getting rough by that age anyway.
What idiot lights or gauges are on? If your car has a just an idiot light for charging can’t tell if battery, alternator, or or short. But if a voltage indicator, should be able to tell if charging or not. If you have a basic multi meter, connect across battery terminal and see what battery voltage is, start car and see if voltage goes up around 14 volts from around 12.5V+
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/r/advice/car-maintenance/6-symptoms-of-a-bad-alternator
I’d at least try some of these before doing an Alternator, $120+, battery $85-$100. If there is an Advanced Auto really close, go an have them do the free testing for you, they can do it on the car with a reader.
