I bought a little resin utility shed. About 7’ long x 4’ wide x 6’ tall.
Needs a base. I’m going to make a pressure treated wood frame with 12" spreaders. I’m not pouring concrete.
Do I put the pressure treated base directly on the ground? Pavers at the corners and midpoint? Or should I use 4x4 skids?
Do I need to put anything underneath that or will it be fine for 5-10 years siting on the ground? Don’t care if it starts to rot at the 5 year mark. Water does not pool in the area.
Suggest you check with your City regulations and Home Owners Association first, if it applies to your situation. You may find that you are required to keep the total height below the height of your fence. For my backyard shed I used pressure treated lumber for a base. Instead of putting it directly on the ground I mounted it on very short fence posts to allow water to flow underneath.
Over the years I have a bunch of wild rabbits that have made their home under my shed. The rabbits don’t seem to mind my dog in the backyard and visa versa, they seem to live in harmony together.
I’ve made floors for a couple of barn tack rooms. My approach is to use deck piers for the ground contact. These are solid concrete blocks about 8” on a side with notches in the top which will hold a 2x6 vertically. 2x6 for floor joists, plywood for flooring, 2x4 walls and sheathing which extends down the outside beyond the flooring to protect the edges of the plywood from the elements.
The advantage of the deck piers is that the notches prevent the wood base from shifting and help hold things square while you’re framing it up.
Optional, but I would put down heavy black plastic or landscape cloth and gravel to eliminate weed growth.
Option two would be to cut into the turf and remove the top 2-3” inches of topsoil. Layer in a few inches of road base or sand and level off, then place bricks or paver stones on top, with the goal of having the pavers above grade. Set the shed on the pad.
Easiest way to level the sand is to lay two or mor pieces of EMT conduit into the sand, level them, then screed the sand with a board which rides on the pipe like rails.
Advantage: Cheaper than wood if you can scrounge the bricks/pavers. Won’t rot. Works best in well drained area which is already pretty level.
I’ve moved dirt for my wife’s garden. Not my favorite task by any means.
I’ve changed my plans to pavers…thought it would be good practice for other projects. I’ve got to cut out my neighbors tree roots and plug the hole by the fence. Then I’m digging/tamping a little bit, laying 1/2” of sand, then paver base mats, then the pavers and edging, and filling the cracks with poly sand.
the biggest tip that I can offer is to CONSTANTLY check your level, at every step of the process. And you actually want to have a slight angle (like, as in 1/2" for every 8 feet) so that water won’t pool under the shed. I would recommend the slope go towards the back or side of the shed.
