Bad Caps class!

My nephew wants in too for his Golden Tee

+1 here as well and characters

1 Like

Have seen this one posted yet? Very interested!

I have an Onkyo receiver that does not power on that needs trouble shouting that i can bring. I also have a Yamaha Amp that the caps need possible changing that I can bring.
I also have several working DVD players, pre amps, and other older stereo equipment that I would like to donate for parts.

Wow - another TV restorer! Howā€™s the cabinet for that 630TS? Iā€™ve got an Admiral 30A1 and Motorola 9T1, both of which need a full recap, to go with a restored GE locomotive set. Thereā€™s a '46 RCA 721CT that I know of in an OKC antique mart that Iā€™m debating on trying to obtain. I think I may have too many in the queue already!

I just did a repair on an Onkyo 940? A/V receiver with the same symptoms. Basically the windings in the standby transformer were smaller than the wire in the main fuse that protected it, so guess which went POP the first time it saw a power surge? Not that fuse! Fortunately it was a 12V secondary transformer according to the service manual, so I riveted a new similarly sized one (woo hoo for Tanners!) on the chassis in place of the original (long unavailable and $$$$ on ebay) part. Check and see if your standby transformer met a similar fate!

Can I get in on helping with that workshop? Iā€™ve got a ton of experience with CP/M, Commodore, and Apple 8-bit, including board-level repairs. Who do I need to talk to?

2 Likes

Iā€™m a component level repair guy on old computers. I worked for a gray market Apple repair depot back in the mid 90s doing repairs on Apple IIs and early Macs. The other side of the business was PC sales/repairs and I ran the repair center. Those were fun times tinkering with hardware. learning surface mount rework, etc. :slight_smile:

These days Iā€™m building an S-100 computer system and work for Corporate America, but run Arcadecomponents.com on the side and fix arcade game boards and old computers for people. Would be fun to sit and chat with you.

3 Likes

Hit me up at tonightā€™s vcc/sdc office hours (7-9pm).

component level repair guy on old computers

We have an Amiga 1200 that needs some keys replaced and maybe the drive plus a few caps tested after it took a four foot tumble of a display mount. Think thatā€™s some you or @jmcarmack might be interested in assisting with?

Cabinet is in pretty rough shape. Set was given to me by a friend after his elderly aunt had passed away. It was stored in her garage an in her later years she hit it with her car. Needs substantial veneer work.

The set itself still needs the electrolytic cans replaced. The plan is to keep the original cans and put the (much smaller) individual replacement caps underneath. I had acquired the terminal strips needed to do this but cannot find them at this time. Before I do that I need to test the picture tube (10P4). My picture tube tester functionality needs to be validated. I recently acquired a B&K Television Analyst, but it needs to be recapped first. I do know that the UV-emissive picture tube used to generate the test pattern is good, so after recapping and resistor checks I should have an excellent piece of TV test equipment. I have 3 other 1950ā€™s vintage sets in line behind the 630TS. So many things to do and so little timeā€¦

Oh, you are a great boon for the team.

You can take the cans apart and put the individual caps inside. :slight_smile:

If you still want to do it the other way I have terminal strips I can give you.

I also have a CRT Tester/Rejuvenator, but the tube you have isnā€™t listed. Are you sure that number is correct? It has a slew of tubes all around that part #, but not that part.

10BP4 is correct number for CRT.:flushed:

I know that putting the caps in the can would give the nicest looking end result, but doing so will take a lot of time.

  • Unsolder wires from can cap terminals
  • Remove can caps from chassis
  • Spread can ā€˜lipā€™ apart and heat can to remove old caps
  • Solder new caps into ā€˜insideā€™ of terminals on bakelite can cap base
  • Swedge can back around bakelite base
  • Solder can back into chassis
  • Resolder components+wires onto terminals

There must be an easier way?

Hmmmā€¦

10BP4 is 6.3v for the heater and CR-10 adapter for my BK CRT tester.

No easier way to tear into those that Iā€™m aware of.

OK, I donā€™t have the CR-10, but I do have the CR-XA which is the universal adapter using micro clips.

We can make that work if needed.

image

OMG a 1200!! I have wanted to get my hands on one of those for years. I bought a 500 back in '90 and still have the sidecar hard disk, tons of disks, and external floppy drive.

To be frank itā€™s likely the line filter cap thatā€™s across the AC line. Usually .47uF @ 250v. These are of the age that they commonly go and do so often in explosive ways.

I think weā€™ve chatted at Tannerā€™s. You sound really familiar!

10BP4 is a VERY common CRT for the postwar era. I have three sets that use that same tube. There are still rebuilt ones out there if yours turns out to be a dud. I have a B&K 400 and a 465 that we can use to check that 10BP4. Iā€™ll be bringing the 465 to the space soon to check Tomā€™s Philco chassis in VECTOR. Also, Shawn in VECTOR has a couple of testers if my 465 doesnā€™t do the job.