2011 - 160,000 miles
Here are a couple videos to check out and a link to the correct setup for your car.
I always recommend to replace inner and outer on both sides, especially if inner on one side and the outer on the other are both going out.
Saves you from having to do the job a second time later.
Detroit axle is a brand that I’ve used on several of my vehicles for OEM replacement parts.
For example the last couple trucks I’ve had had Detroit Axle ball joints, tie rods, drag link, sway bar, end links, ect and they have always lasted.
https://www.amazon.com/Front-Pinion-2007-2013-Mitsubishi-Outlander/dp/B07BN17P2J
I can’t promise I’ll be available to physically help, but I can help point you in the right direction so you’re not walking into this completely blind.
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I think I’d also look at how to diagnose the problem. Just because that’s what they quoted doesn’t mean it’s what you need, or only what you need.
Also, when doing work your self look at what else you can do as preventative action when doing the basic job. As an example, when doing something that requires draining coolant, are new hoses a good idea?
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This helps a lot guys! Thank y’all! I’ll keep you posted on other questions I have!
Yes,
Not rocket science.
A few things things I might add:
Verify those parts actually need replacing, and if they do, you may consider replacing the other side as well (depending on the parts cost).
Measure the lenth of the old tie rods removed(if you remove them as one unit) to give you a ball park of the length for the new ones prior to installation. (Comes in Handy driving to the alignment shop).
Do check Everything within arms reach of the task area on your vehicle for possible worn or damaged parts.
Yours is just over 10 years old, so now is a good time to check struts for signs of oil seeping(yes on gas struts), worn Suspension arm bushings, ball joint play, axle Boots, brake pad wear, any leaks in the steering hydraulics? Oil leaks under the engine or trans? Engine/trans mount condition.
Plus any other scheduled maintenance that is due…
Do you plan to keep the car for a while?
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And note that the Automotive area has a basic alignment kit that can get you pretty close before going to get a good alignment.
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i’m with MadScists: I’d do all - inner&outer on both left and right.
And: Measure and photograph everything before, and during the process. I have an old pocket camera with a largish display I use for this so I don’t grunge my phone up.
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Definitely plan on keeping it as long as I can. This helps a lot. Definitely a lot of ground to cover tho. But sounds like it’s a project that will get me very familiar with automotive.
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And while you are doing you home study for this read about front end alignment and the concepts of toe, caster, and camber. You will really affect toe in this quest, but the others are important to understanding alignment as well. They are actually pretty simple concepts.
I NEVER recommend taking any vehicle to a Franchise repair garage - except in the case of wheel alignments for those that do their own work and plan to keep their car for several years. Firestone offers a “Lifetime” wheel alignment". This is the ONLY “feature” Firestone offers that has any value.
Starting out in maintenance, and keeping the car - I’d suggest looking for a good service manual. I’d suggest a factory service manual - no idea where to source that from. (Haynes, Chilton and any that you find in a typical auto parts store do not qualify as a “good service manual” - they are barely ok)
When watching YouTube videos one a topic - try to watch several - to get a better idea of what is involved. Many folks on YouTube may have good intentions but some of these are clearly not mechanics.
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They are mostly the same manual with different cars on the cover 
Good OEM manuals will run a few hundred dollars for most manufacturers. Most after 2007 or so are available on (or only on) CD/DVD. Some OEM Manuals aren’t really available at all (looking at you VW)
I don’t know anything about these guys, but they claim to have them:
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Generally if you have the car up in the air - wheels off the ground or on my old Lift at the Makerspace you grab the tire at about 3 & 9 O’clock and push-pull “feeling & looking” for play in the steering system.
Primitive but very effective. No special diagnostic software needed…later model cars ruined that though.
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11 posts were split to a new topic: Talk of Things Which are NOT Tie Rod End Replacement on Mitsubishi Outlanders, but Started There
Good to know! That’s where I got it inspected and almost got it fixed.
Or lifted just a little off the ground, put a lever under the tire and lift the tire and lower it - if it clunks it’s definitely junk and needs repair. Yanking on the wheel is fine for big guys on cars, but would (did) not work on my pickup or many newer cars (as TLAR notes.) Dunno if this applies to your Outlander. Taking the load off the wheels on a lot of newer vehicles loads the tie rods enough to mask wear.
Closer inspection is really needed to diagnose problems that are not in this clunky advanced state of wear, but till should be repaired. There are a number of YT videos on this topic, and are probably a few that are Outlander specific.
CJ, Years ago when the Makerspace was “different” and I was foolish enough to be chair of automotive there was a member that won me" in an auction we had for a fund raiser for some cause. A lift class and a few hours of my time with her and her car and her three pages of $3500 in quoted repairs from a Firestone in Fort Worth.
One Sunday we met to go over the suggested repairs and to look over the car and do the lift training, and make a list of what was actually needed. The next Sunday she and I met to knock out the work. 2011 Juke I think it was. Cabin filter had never been replaced - your has probably never been replaced either, even though you have paid for it many times. (yes, something to think about at $89 each time). Her parts total was about $120 not the $3400 quoted.
Yes, it took most of a Sunday, good humour is KEY. simple things like replacing wiper blades - the rear wiper blade on a 2011 Juke in the owners manual says to “see your nearest dealer as a special tool is required” - what a crock. (good thing few people read these owners manuals).
For Service manuals - maybe - try next month locally at the giant Pate Swap Meet held at the Texas Motor Speedway (slim chance but you never know what shows up there. There is a Mom and Pop shop that shows up with service manuals for a hella lotta cars. I did find my factory 78 Bronco books (not a surprise), but I also found a Hurst shifter for 66 VW Doka (very unusual to find anywhere).
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Regarding service manuals, I’ve had good success purchasing a day or two of access to the manufacturers tech portal, then just downloading everything I think I’ll ever need. I did this with my Camry and got a pile of PDFs with all the OEM service manuals, TSBs and wiring diagrams for $20 and an afternoon of my time.
Mitsubishi seems to have something similar here (Mitsubishi Motors Service Information Retrieval), which ought to have OE procedures for just about anything.
I’ve found the OEM service manuals to be more reliable than something like a Hanes manual, but they aren’t perfect mind you. I’d still watch a YouTube video or corroborate info with other sources before getting into a repair.
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Toyota has something similar as well…I have it bookmarked for some reason, although I have never needed to actually register/pay for anything…yet.
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That’s what I used for my car. The best wiring diagrams anywhere, procedures for everything (the “official” way at least) and every TSB. Worth it for the wiring diagrams and TSBs alone tbh.
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DYK…Tesla put their factory manuals online for free! They want to encourage 2rd party mechanics to jump in to lower the cost of repair on old Teslas, (and stir the pot of Natural Selection, EVs can kill you, dead) ÷O
https://service.tesla.com/service-subscription
Also, Autozone will give you free access to a lot of helpful tips and tutorials about conventional cars and trucks.
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