Advice on Lifting a Minivan

I took the lift class last week in preparation for lifting my 2014 Toyota Sienna for a hitch receiver install.

During the class, we were advised to use a car’s owner’s manual for guidance on positioning the lift arms, specifically in relation to jack points.

However, my owner’s manual lists jack points in the front and rear center of the car, but nothing on the sides.

I would appreciate advice on how to position the lift arms for my car.

Those are for use with the tire jack.

The service manual should show the recommended lift points. Generally, use the frame along the side. Avoid damaging the catalytic converter, running boards and any ground effects.

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Thanks, Bill.

I’ve not yet found the service manual online, but will look some more. I might just run by a dealership and see if they’ll show me.

Your general guidance is helpful!

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Do not be surprised if they don’t oblige you. Dealerships are notoriously rude/unhelpful to DIY-ers, as service is how they make their money.

I had same general issue with my Toyota 4runner. All I have to offer is general common sense (my version of it) which worked for me:

A) There wasn’t that much choice/variance in where I could position my vehicle (I suspect this is true for you as well)…a few inches of play front to back, and a little less left-to-right, so that sort of removed these variables from the equation for me. I assumed L-t-R symmetry with regard to frame, and that motor at front makes it heavier there, so that led me to center it as closely as I could L-t-R, and a bit off center with regard to F-t-B such that front end had more support.

  1. Raising lift slowly, I kept checking underneath to make sure contact would be made somewhere along frame, front and back, for both sides. I needed to take care to make sure “soft” areas (e.g. muffler, gas tank, other weak-support surfaces) would not make first contact by using appropriately positioned rubber lift pads and 6" lengths of 2x4s.

iii) Once those were in what I thought were correct positions, I raised the lift until my car just barely moved, then rechecked all 4 touch points and re-positioned as needed.

IV) All this checking and positioning and re-checking and re-positioning at all four lift points can take a long time and goes much faster if you have a friend. I don’t so it took me about 15-20 mins 1st time to get to a point where I felt I could lift vehicle safely and that I wasn’t going to damage it.

&) Once you get it right, raise the car to eye level, take some pics so you don’t have to go through this horrible procedure next time, and save your 2x4s if you had to use them.

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So sad.

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0x36) Try to rock the car bow-to-stern by pushing down on the bumper. It should not teeter-totter.

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Great advice all the way around!

I think I need to spend some time locating places for the blocks, as they’re not obvious to me. :fearful:

I identified a couple spots that turned out to be plastic after closer inspection!

The “blocks” are black rubber and usually at the base of the lift columns. If more blocking is needed - try the wood scrap bin for usable pieces.
I’ll be up at the space around 8pm if you need help.

Oh, I meant where to place them on the underside of the vehicle.

But that would be great to get your in person guidance! I have some friends that are helping me with the actual install, but it would be ideal to get some practice placing my car on the lift before then! :+1:

Use your legs, not your back… :laughing:

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I got to DMS last night in time to listen in on @mbartell doing the lift class, which was a good refresher.

Then he spent another hour or so helping me get my car onto the lift (along with other helpful DMS folks). I’m glad I didn’t try it for the first time by myself!

Matthew, thank you so much for your help and patience! I think all the pictures I took should enable me to get the car back on the lift for the actual work.

Also thanks to @TLAR for offering to help!

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Any tips for the next guy?

I Googled make model and lift points, some of what I got - lots of photos and diagrams.

You’re a better googler than me! Thank you!

Those are almost the same spots we used. The problem we had was because of the sleds on the arms, we could only go so far forward.

Good question, Bill!

Lesson 1 is: Body on Frame is better than Unibody for lifting!

We had a hard time placing my car in such a way that we could distribute the weight and fit within the constraints placed by the sleds. If the arms were more free moving I think we could place the stands where the picture by @Photomancer indicates.

Lesson 2 is: get help! I had so much guidance and help, I don’t know how I would have ever got the car up off the ground without it. Starting with getting my car centered within the pillars / over the sleds, to finding good lift points. It took us maybe 3 different attempts to find good lift points toward the front of the car. We thought we had them and then once we got the car up a bit, it rocked. So we tried again.

Lesson 3 is: DMS is awesome. :vulcan:

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I’m not really a great Googler - just put in “2014 Toyota Siennna Lift Points” and selected images But have been looking up a lot on cars lately since I was given a “Free Project Car” a week ago: Allen’s old VW Cabriolet - “Free” is a relative term.

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