A/C Spring Cleaning Thoughts?

I clean/maintenance my A/C system every year (in spring) by pretty much following this guide:

Here’s the cleaner I use and after 20 years it still looks like this:

Question 1: Is the “A/C Safe” cleaner really any different from a typical foaming bathroom cleaner like:

Question 2: The FamilyHandyMan guide suggests applying some oil to the fan motor if it has lubrication points. How do I know if my motor has lubrication points via visual inspection?

@TBJK @kbraby

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I dont use cleaner unless absolutely necessary. Just water. Most condenser fan motors are sealed bearings. Those that do have them, likely use ND30.

For those who have micro channel coils, DO NOT use any coil cleaner.
Micro Channel coil

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Apparently, coil cleaners can cause corrosion for microchannel (all aluminum) types.

Thanks…copper tubes like I have == NOT microchannel. Right?

Cleaners, unless THOROUGHLY rinsed often leave behind residue that attracts dirt and grime, which makes the heat transfer less efficient. Just spray it down really good with water.

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I prefer tube & fin heat exhangers. IE what you have. They are less efficient than Microchannel, when the microchannel is new. Once the new Microchannel coil is dirty, those efficiencies are likely permanently lost. Why? Well because the surface area is so much, it gets packed with debris & its almost impossible to get back out. I dont care if you backflush it then clean it again from the front. The dirt & debris is stuck. Additionally on the refigerant side, the orffices are so small, they are easily clogged by any dirt/debris.

Tube & fin heat exchangers can be cleaned & get cleaner when cleaned.

Here is an example. One of my customers has to clean their coils about every 3-4 weeks because the machine has microchannel coils. A machine with a Tube & Fin coil would by comparison only need to be cleaned 10-12 weeks given the same conditions. Also when they are cleaned they dont take as long to clean. However, if anyone happens to bend the fins on the coils, you only have 1 shot to straiten them. If it is not done right, you will get diminishing returns and will never be the same.

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Tim,

It sounds like you are saying the “old school” equipment that isn’t as “high tech” as the latest gear out there may actually be the better gear to have for serviceability and reliability.

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The Rheem unit I recently had replaced at 18 years old,I never used any cleaner on. My goal was to clean it at least twice a year. I would pull the fan motor and clean by blowing water through from the inside, then at a low angle across the outside, and as much spider silk and cottonwood and other junk as I collect out here, and as much as the rheem grill captures junk, I often repeat the process.

The reason for AC safe cleaners, if you feel the need, is that they will be a safe PH, and possibly PH balanced, to minimize the risk of corroding the coils.

I’ll second that most residential equipment equipment will have sealed bearings. Oil ports, if they exist will often look like an unhardened roll pin, with the end rolled out like a funnel.

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I’ll third it…when I service residential units: 1) I vacuum them with a shopvac and soft bristled brush, 2) I blowoff the coils from the inside outward, 3) vacuum the outside and 4) complete with water rinsing from the inside out. The reason for all the vacuuming is I believe it is easier to remove dust than mud…surface tension and all. I rarely use coil cleaners because they will likely corrode or pit the Al surfaces. Good luck.

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