I prefer paper service manuals - searching through the pages is never a problem, in fact it tends to make one stop and read other sections that would be overlooked in the digital version. However the factory DVD style (CDrom in the 1990’s) often has “updates” (TSB’s, later model options, etc) that older printed editions don’t have.
Jast - I missed out on the crappy digital version of the Bentley manuals.
I have the paper version for my 2004 Tdi Wagon,
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Well sure but not knowing much about cars I’d need the manual to help me diagnose it. I’m not going to just do an engine rebuild just for funsies. I wouldn’t be able to anyhow as I only have the one car.
But I know if I take it to a mechanic they’re going to tell me everything under the sun is broken with it and rip me off. So I’d rather try to diagnose it myself.
You don’t need a shop manual to diagnose it
I am curious as to what you have - i.e. year, make, model, miles, and why you might think it needs an engine overhaul?
If you do take it to a “mechanic or shop” I would suggest you find one by word of mouth that is an independent - not a franchise.
Not all mechanics are liars and thieves but many in franchises are just that - for them it is all about selling you things you do not need.
Mom & Pop local shops have much more to risk than a giant chain like the Christian (Devil) brothers plus at a Mom and Pop you usually talk to the owner / mechanic. Try that at a FIrestone, Midas, or just crooks (I mean just brakes).
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I am curious as to what you have - i.e. year, make, model, miles, and why you might think it needs an engine overhaul?
2004 Chevy Impala.
When I start the car it will periodically (not all the time) splutter here within the last 2 weeks or so. You can hear the engine struggling and watch the tach fluctuate up and down. When I give it some gas while starting, it’ll help it stabilize. It’s not yet completely died, but the engine itself is audibly choking on itself, so something is wrong with it. In my mind’s eye, in a 13 year old car it’s probably going to be the engine conking out.
I’m always open to suggestions as to mechanics. I’ve not yet found one, even at ‘mom and pops’ that’s overly impressed me. One charged me $250 to change a battery. Like, thanks…could’ve done that myself had you given me the option.
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What kind of history do you have with it?
Bought new or used?
How many miles (does it have; have you put on it, do you put on it every year)?
What is the maintenance history like (last “tune up” & what was done, last oil change, etc.)?
This sounds like an ignition problem, but I could be way off. Doesn’t sound like an “overhaul the engine” problem. Of course, the answers to the above would help paint a more complete picture, but “in person” is always better…
2004 Chevy Impala
That’s a good thing. Plug in and OBD-II dongle to it ($20) and use Torque Pro ($5) to read any codes that it is throwing. I assume the check engine light is on?
Have you checked the simple stuff like air filter and oil level? Next up would be fuel pressure and IAC (idle air controller), since you said that working the throttle helps. Ignition problems tent to make it run rough, but it usually doesn’t die.
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Ah, also forgot to mention that the MAF (mass airflow sensor) could be shot. That’d lead to bad idle, as it did in my Celica.
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As long as a modern engine is running and not making mechanically bad sounds, usually the issue will not require a rebuild. It is more likely to be air leaks in the intake, bad sensors, or maybe a bad actuator. A lot of the troubleshooting is about understanding how the sensors and behavior interacts in the operation of the engine. Especially when it isn’t throwing a code, or the code thrown isn’t pointing to component that is actually bad.
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When I rebuilt my VW engine decades ago I used 3 separate books (including Chilton’s). It was good to read the different approaches to the same tasks, plus the different pictures helped as well. The workarounds to get past not having the various special factory tools was a big help.
Props to Snaps for posting this stuff, great trip down memory lane.
Bill
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So after looking at the set of valves I had from both my old heads as the two new junkyard heads (32 valves) I decided it would be a better choice to just buy new valves.
With the new valves in, I started to lap the valves inorder to get a smooth sealing surface between the valve and the press’s in valve seat. To do this you put a ring of lapping compound on the valve, install it fully seated in the valve guide, and use a suction cup on the end of a stick to rotate the valve in alternating CW/CCW directions. This removes a very small amount of material from both the valve and the valve seat to form a tight mating surface between the two so that when the valve is closed it seals correctly.
I spent about two hours repeating this process on all 16 valves.
Next up is installing the valve springs and keepers. There is a spring and a keeper for each valve. The spring makes the valve return to closed position when the cam lobe rotates past the peak and the keepers keep the spring on the valve stem. To get the keepers on the valve stem, the spring must be compressed to reveal the keeper grooves. It’s a little difficult to tell from this picture but the three grooves in the valve stem are where the keepers sit. The keepers sit in a tapered hole on top of the spring and are held in place by the preloaded spring.
Pictured here is the spring compressor that compresses the valve spring enough to install the keepers.
This process, like lapping, gets repeated for every valve.
Both heads are assembled! This weekend I hope to have them installed on the block with cams be ready to set the timing.
Stay tuned!
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With a little basic maintenance those days are long gone even for “American” cars. For example my F150 is a 1999 model and with the new axle bearings & ROUTINE maintenance & repaires i’m sure it will go another 18 years
Agvet - it sounds like you may have a fuel issue - not uncommon for a fuel pump module nearing the end of it’s serviceable life. I would certainly do what Zach suggested above as a start. Plus based on things like “unmetered air”(modern term for a common vacuum leak) will / cause a variety of drivability issues.
I’d suggest making a date for an evening at the space with Zach, Andrew, myself, and others and I’ll borrow my friend’s smoke generator for testing for vacuum leaks. WE can do a compression test, and scan it etc and try to help you.
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The sell smoke generators at most gas stations as long as you over 18.
A much easier and more pronounced detection method is carb cleaner. It gets sucked in to a leak and the engine increases RPM for a second. Much easier to target specific areas with an aerosol can
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I use this method as well - but it is not always the best way, on too many newer cars there are leaks that the smoke test is far superior.
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I prefer an unlit propane torch, just cracked open a bit. 
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listening is free, and my go to.
water in a spray bottle is nearly free, and, if handy, a close second.
Then comes all the stuff you have to buy (propane works well in some instances, but ain’t free; ditto smoke generator)
Carb cleaner works well, but ain’t free, and eats rubber, so it must be used sparingly.
All good methods. 
Had I realized that was you in the shop last night, I would have stopped to say Hi.
One unusual feature of this engine is that the fan is not driven off the water pump or an electric motor, but by the power steering system.
That option was available on some of the later year WJs but mine (99) has an electric fan and an thermal clutch fan on the water pump.
I own a vehicle which uses the power steering pump to power the power brakes.
Heads are assembled and all I’m waiting on is a new oil pump to get this thing finished
In addition to rebuilding my engine I’m also giving my transmission a little TLC with a shift improvement kit from Transgo.
It is designed to firm up shifts as well as fix a few other issues like hard TC lockup.
It comes with new springs for the valve body accumulators and a thicker retainer plate
It also includes re engineered springs for the fluid pump. I’m glad I did this because upon disassembling my pump I found that the torque converter lock up accumulator had a broke spring. Likely the cause of some hard shifts
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They are expensive until you think about how much they can save you in time, money and doing it right the first time. Totally with @TLAR on this.
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