So I was using the 192.168.200.91 printer with this filament. After brushing the nozzle many times at the target temperatures for the nozzle and bed, the filament came out just fine without any problems. No clogging.
However, the problem came up when I started printing. The printer made a messy design, so I can’t tell if the issue is:
A) the filament
B) the polyprinter
C) the design I got from thingiverse.com
I placed the filament wheel with a label back into the filament drawer as shown in the image.
Did you repair the mesh before trying to print it? IDK if this contributed to your problem, but the STL file appears to have some issues:
FWIW, it’s good practice to repair any stl’s you get from someone else before you try to print.
Perhaps someone else can answer this … do we have netfabb or some other stl repair utility?
EDIT: You can see from this cross-section analysis that the character on the RHS is hollow. It has a mathematically infinitesimal shell but nothing else. Not sure that’s repairable - someone with more skills than I have will have to weigh in.
How do you repair mesh? I had a few similar issues with some of my prints in the past, and while I was mostly able to solve them, more skills are always a good thing
I’ve never found a reason to use an automated function to repair stl files. As in this case, the root issue is almost always because of the way that you’ve opened that file – software, settings or whatever.
it’s good practice to repair any stl’s you get from someone else
Editing stl files is a kludge. That feature is most likely there because the importer doesn’t work correctly. in this case there’s no need to do that, as they’ve included the blend files. (free software!)
If it slices and the toolpaths look ok, then there’s no issue (besides the fact that stl format and kissslicer are both janky).
It has a mathematically infinitesimal shell but nothing else.
All 3d graphics data is just defining the shell. It doesn’t have any information about what’s inside. The issue is that the mesh doesn’t look watertight according to your software, probably because there are a lot of overlapping faces on the chamfers at the top. I tried superslicer (free software!) and it slices fine.
Probably due to my crappy software. Fusion 360. Not the greatest for mesh.
The last file I had like this also sliced just fine. Couldn’t print. When I looked at the individual sliced layers I could see that there was nothing on any of them except the bottom because there was no mass there. But I think I read you as saying that it should print despite that?
Automated mesh repair within SuperSlicer. Like 99% of the time this fixes any issues.
Import into Windows’ 3D program. The repair function is actually quite nice and it gets the majority of problems SuperSlicer might miss.
Import into MeshMixer as last resort and repair it myself.
For this particular issue I’d be looking at bed leveling/z-offset for my printers at home (Ender 3 Pros). I’ve only used the printers at the space once so not sure if that’s all somehow automated.
If the toolpaths are not correct then it didn’t slice correctly.
the nozzle should move according to the paths depicted.
That author of the stl probably made the top lip section by scaling the mesh in Blender. That’s not the correct way to do it. You could draw the kanji character in illustrator, export svg, extract the outline in solidworks and use an offset. You could also do image trace on the game screenshot to get the vector outline.
