Thanks @Jast guess I will see what is in the box when it is delivered. Ordered this part
Hope I’m right! It’s been longer since I did this than I recollect, apparently. I recall re-using those, but I’m pretty sure that was a personal swap-out of junkyard parts (i.e. my boss would have skinned me alive if I’d done that to a customer’s car, and probably if he’d caught me doing it to my own!) and I recall using new ones in general, but not where I got them…
negative,
Keyless start is like a British or Italian car of the 1980’s - nice to look at but not reliable
I think you mean the 1960s. Nothing (virtually) from the 1980s was worth looking at, or using. Except the Countach. And the 308. Which are Italian. You win. 
But more to my point, at least if you have keyless ignition, your problem is not likely to be a heavy keychain. You may have plenty of OTHER problems, but not that one.
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Switch arrived, did not include bolts… research continues
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Well, poop. Sorry, I appear to have been wrong on that…
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based on this post: I’m going to buy these: M8-1.25x50 metric bolt and its corresponding nut and hope… it’s the same, unless I find something else in my reading.
Hm.
I can find the right part for an Accord/Odyssey, but not the Fit…
https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~bolt~break~head~35102-sv4-003.html
I’ll keep looking, but proceeding with your plan will likely getcha there. 
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THANKS @jast. This one is claiming to fit my car. Had forgotten about that site.
Ordered, will update when they arrive and I get a chance to come out to do the repair.
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Well, good news bad news:
Good news-- here’s the procedure-- Disconnect battery. Press down break (not sure why here, but my foot was on it. Doubt it matters, but would hate to leave it out and have it matter) remove one screw on bottom of steering column clam shell. Turn steering wheel to the left to reveal a leverage point and use a flat head screwdriver to pop that clip, turn to the right, repeat. Remove top clam shell. 1 screw now revealed on other side holding the bottom part Remove screws, remove bottom part of clam shell.
Fracture spine to get a look at the switch. There is one fillips screw (small head) on the back side that can be removed with a stubby screw driver. There is another on the driver side door side that can be removed with a right angle screw driver. You do NOT have to remove the shear bolts if you are just changing the switch, but it’s a tight and frustrating fit. Remove switch, unplug connector, re-assemble.
Bad news – Issue persists. Replaced the battery based on some reading on fit forums that even if the battery wasn’t testing bad an old or slightly weak battery could cause this issue. It wasn’t the battery either.
is the Starter the most likely culprit now?
Starter, starter solenoid (probably inside the starter), and there’s probably a relay and a couple of wiring connectors in the path too… and a fuse.
This may sound stupid, Are you out of your warranty?
Yes, 45k miles. I don’t typically buy the extended packages.
Unless you just really, really start your car a LOT, the starter shouldn’t be the problem @ 45k miles. I mean, using like a stop-start system (turn it off at red lights, start it back up on green) still shouldn’t really have worn out a starter (or even the redux contacts, which is the normal failure mode for Honda starters) in 45k…
So, I gave up and dropped it off at Firestone this morning. They checked the whole starting system, it’s all fine. – Cables, connections, starter, solenoid, battery, alternator. They’re about to step up to an engine diagnostic check. Thoughts?
I’m thinking you’re back to some sort immobilizer problem, like Zach mentioned back when we thought it’d been licked…
Does is display the “green key light” when it won’t start, as eluded to here?
EDIT: I can see you mentioned above that it DOES. This seems to suggest even more strongly something wrong with the key or the immobilizer system…
Have you tried other keys?
it does not display the key light without the DMS fob
I asked a friend to ask his customers ( My friend works for a huge import part wholesaler in the DFW area and has several Honda only repair shops as clients) about your issue - a reply may not happen until next week tho
P.S. your intermittent start issue is not unusual in the Honda world
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perhaps a reprogramming of the keys/immobilizer system might be worth a shot.
going back to your original post, it sounds like the issue is that the immobilizer does not read the key to enable the engine to start.
Is it automatic trans or manual trans?
Automatic – CVT –
I think it was a combination of issues, as the DMS fob was kicking the immobilizer, but when the immobilizer kicks, there is a flashing green key shaped light. I am no longer seeing that light when I experience failure to start.