Guys, thanks so much for all the help!
Two points I may have been fuzzy on, the problem occurred before disconnecting the battery 4 days ago, and my wife says the revving thing has been an issue for a month or two (she told me, I forgot 
). Disconnecting the battery and driving was my attempt to reset the ODB2.
Now to try the detailed (propper) way…
Ok, still can’t get the codes to read. Should I disconnect the battery again and retry?
Could the high idle be the IAC valve?
Yes.
Usually it causes low idle, but it can fail high as well.
Sometimes cleaning the carbon out of the passages can help, too, and is cheaper, but not easier.
I can’t find a video about your specific car, but here’s a decent on on a Ford Van
The Cougar will be similar.
Here’s just the IAC on an Escape, which at least as the engine going transversally, like your Cougar. Again, should be similar.
If idle is dropping, then it would appear that IAC is having some control over speed.
I’m thinking your key concern is to get the ready status on all systems, and not get any codes, so you can pass inspection. Disconnecting power will just reset any progress towards ready status. Any idea if you have ready status and are good to go for retest?
You can get a OBDII reader that will tell you if it’s ready. The one I use I bought the PID for Ford so I could see more specific data but it will tell you how many not ready’s you have. I got mine for I think 16.99 on Amazon plus another 10 for the app.
Also, elaboration on this might be helpful. What has been tried. What the results were.
Example:
Hooked up bluetooth code reader and attempted to pull codes following the directions for Torque with my Samsung Galaxy S7. It returned “no logged failures”.The “Drive Status since DTC Clear” all show “complete”.
What Tim said. 
The picture posted above is the most detailed info I’ve gotten so far from the inspection. Cat, O2,Heated O2, and EVAP show as “Not Ready”. Went to autozone, and their reader says eRR0R… Very helpful
@TBJK I’ll order one of those and see if that helps. The directions @jast posted earlier include plugging a reader in before the sequence.
I’ll keep driving and see what happens after the reader comes in Any recommendations on reader or app?
Do you have android or IPhone?
Did you try the code reader @ the 'Space?
(and for my own curiosity, why or why not? Or do you just want your own, which is certainly a valid choice as well?)
@TBJK iPhone
@jast I’ve tried that one on my Camry, and I wasn’t sure how to use it without a comp or other device to read the codes
Code readers can be had for cheap on amazon, where I got mine.
You will need to get the WiFi dongle, I have heard that recently the Bluetooth has been enabled through Apple but I don’t think I would chance it. I use dash command. I also bought OBD fusion but had bad luck with it, it made my vehicle die a few times.
This is the one I have, it is my second one since I misplaced my first one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WPW6BAE/ref=gwm_tlc_pi?pf_rd_p=8a89d6cc-6768-4927-9476-0d5144805ddd&pf_rd_s=grid-6&pf_rd_t=Gateway&pf_rd_i=mobile&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=05QKGFDMK1WQVRM87KSC
@jast @TLAR @TBJK @kbraby Thanks for the recommendations. DashCommand with that reader is pretty awesome!
Still get a “Not Ready” on Catalyst, EVAP, Oxygen, and Oxygen Heat. Could a bad sensor, IAC, etc cause other systems to not initialize? Maybe a bad fuse (haven’t found one yet)? Still no MIL.
How far / how many times have you driven it since you last reset it? Typically a “not ready” is due to not being driven enough miles…the magic number varies from manufacturer to manufacturer - there is no hard fast number (no matter what you find on the internet).
Also take a look here.
http://repairpal.com/Drive-Cycle-Issues
Is the battery and charging system in good shape?
Kbraby - that is an outstanding question - glad you posted that! Today’s gadgets and garbage built into a vehicle rely on a sound charging system to function properly ( and why many modern luxury cars have two batteries)
P.S. not all drive-ability issues force a trouble code to show either - those issues can be a pain to troubleshoot.
My Check Engine light has come on about 3 times in last three months. Usually after I fill tanl and drive it three or four times it goes off (like today). Really should go get vehicle inspection done today and get a reader to find out what it is. At 230K+ it is probably O2 sensor is my guess.
Why would that be the culprit if it is affected by fuel level?
That doesn’t follow, to me.
Yes.
As noted in the link from @kbraby for example a bad O2S heater might cause the CAT and O2S to also not be ready.
However, as also noted, weak battery could cause it as well.
Also, is the environment dropping below 90°F overnight? The overnight lows lately have only reached 79°F or so, and if it’s in a hot garage, it might not be cooling down that far during those few hours (far fetched, but possible). Also, is it sitting for 8hrs?
Testing the heater on the O2S is fairly easy, and is outlined in the videos I shared before.[quote=“jast, post:17, topic:10694”]
eric the car guy checks a 4-wire on a Honda;
checking an older 3-wire HO2S on a 1997 Nissan Maxima .
[/quote]
All this is outlined in the links provided previously, so I’m sure you’ve checked it all out, but since it’s still a problem, just going over it again…
@jast thanks! I missed that video! I’ve kept the car outside, but I’m going to try it in the morning early to see if I can get it to trigger now that I have the odb2 device. One of the links you posted also had a method to force a bypass of that sensor specifically in the case of hot climate. Haven’t had a chance to try that part out yet. Haven’t changed the O2 since we’ve had it (10yrs), so I’m hoping it’s that and not the Cat.
@kbraby, you may have something there on the PCM. The car was sitting for about 2 weeks prior to the first failed test. Autozone says the battery is fine now, but I know it’s been a while since it’s been changed.
@TBJK, we’ve put over 200mi on it since I unplugged the battery. The wife is driving to Houston this weekend. So if I can’t get it to reset in the morning, maybe that’ll put enough miles on the system
Keep in mind the drive cycles. In my Jeep supposedly has to be between 3/4 & 1/4 tank. Who actually knows the drive cycles & criteria is crapshoot.
In a search I found this.
http://www.obdii.com/drivecycleford.html