Making some stands for some maps I’ve been laser cutting, and until now have just been using table saw kerf to get a ~1/8" slot. The mount board I’ve been using is about half that, so I’d like to decrease the slot width.
Anyone know off hand if there is a slot cutter router set around DMS with a 1/16"? I don’t remember seeing any during prior uses on the router table , but since I wasn’t looking for it , may have just gone unnoticed.
We don’t have one that small.
How big is the part? I believe the Shapeoko gets down that small, it’s a matter if object will fit on it.
@jphelps hey actually get smaller than this don’t they?
We stock 1/16 end mills for the Shapeoko and you can definitely get a 1/32 to use on your own. Stock width/length may be an issue for you though. How long are the slots?
Can you run your stand up against the band saw to get a slot? I don’t know what the band saw kerf is, but I’m guessing it’s less than 1/8".
EDIT: Nevermind. Now that I see your how long your stands are, I see this won’t work.
They are only less than an inch wide and tall, length can vary from 5" to 10" depending on map size.
If you plan to make a 1" deep slot with a 1/16" end mill (on the Shapeoko, for instance), you will need to make many, many passes at successively deeper depths (30+). If this is a one-time thing it might be a viable solution, but otherwise your best solution is probably to buy your own slot-cutter bit and bring it with you when you come.
Sadly, we are pretty rough on tools, and if we have (had?) a 1/16" slot cutter it would quickly be dull and/or missing.
There’s some possibility, however, that you could convince Woodshop to buy a thin kerf saw blade for one of the table saws.
I am not aware of the thin kerf table saw blade = 1/16th inch (that doesn’t mean they don’t exist, though). Thinnest one easily located is 3/32 inch.
If I needed to do this at DMS and wanted to ensure decent results, I would buy my own bit. Then I would always know that it was in good shape and where it was. They are about $10-$15, depending.
Shanks for this small of a cutter are almost always 1/4 inch; not sure if we have a collet this size for the table router, but we do have the DeWalt trim router which I think would work well with this shank size.
@John_Marlow is correct regarding use of multiple passes for a bit this thin…I’d suggest passes no deeper than width of bit, but others might have different/better perspective on this particular point.
One other approach – but not the best/easiest, just an alternative – is to make the stands out of three pieces glued together, with middle piece determining the slot width and depth.
I was thinking 2 pieces: resaw/rip the stick, rabbet the front, glue back together…
So here is the cutter on amazon for $22.26 with a half inch shank to fit the router table.
BUT, it can only cut to a depth of 9/16 in, So it will not be able to cut an inch deep. Personally, I would consider this a special tool and would suggest purchasing one for your own use.
Most band saw blades are in the .025" - .050" range, mainly in .032"-.035" range (1/32 inch for tree maimers, .81~.89mm for planet bounds)
I missed the 1" deep. That is a deep cut, 16X diameter to cutting length. May be difficult to find. If used by several I full expect these snap as the actual cross-section of of solid material is going to about 1/64th" of an inch.
An alternative method that just occurred to is using a Dremel wood saw blade. You’d have to rig up a way to mount the Dremel but this would get you there and way more stiffness than a mill bit.
You’re not going to find a 1/16 slot (mill) cutter, that can do a 1" deep cut. Most 1/16 bits will max out at a .25" cut depth. Anything longer just doesn’t have the tensile strength not to snap in use.
If it were me, I would reinforce the edges of the map piece with another layer of stiff, strong material using glue. This will allow you to use a thicker slot in the base, and will also add strength the map piece itself. At 1/16 thick, it isn’t going to take much to break it now, so reinforcing it accomplishes multiple positive things.
As @Tapper said - they exist BUT they are pricey and I have my doubts they would last long. here is a link to some: MSC direct bits
@loganc10
Look at 7" thin kerf blades like this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-7-1-4-in-x-60-Tooth-Fine-Finish-Saw-Blade-2-Pack-D0760R/100627136
You can still run them on the Delta table saw, and can be found for around $10 each in the 2 pack.
I just used my digital calipers and was getting a measurement of .064-.065 so it’s just a tiny bit wider than 1/16".
@loganc10 What are the maps made of?
LOL,
This thread is great! We have 2 posts by the OP and 14 responses trying to help. We have come at the problem from multiple different angles offering critique, tool options, non-traditional solutions, ect. This is one of the awesome things about the DMS. I would guess this thread is done at this point.
In my experience the slot cutter you listed is the best suited for the job. These work amazingly well, have little deflection and can be used safely on the router table. I have several sizes myself. It may only go 9/16" deep but I am not sure why you need more.
Thanks everyone for your thoughts on the matter.
So I should have been more clear in that the whole stand is ~1", slot no more than 1/2".
I was thinking the slot cutter might be the best for the job, but wanted to see if there was one available for use before purchase.
Great thing about this place is you are able to hear the other ways to skin the cat, which even if you don’t immediately leverage, may be applicable in future tasks. So thanks for that!
Clayton, these are made from mount board.
Logan
