Literally LOLed @ that! Have to explain my outburst to colleagues.
So… Hypothetical (or practical if you have such knowledge)…
If you carry several RFIDs in your pocket, and your vehicle is keyless start, does that mean that it has to filter the many RFID returns it gets when it scans you when attempting to start, and so does if its fingerprint is among those returns?
Just thinking about footprint, complexity, attack surfaces, hacking, and, inevitably, self-drive cars…
Issue unresolved. Symptoms still occurring without fob near the fit. Read on some forums that if wiggling the key helps, it is probably the ignition switch. It seemed to help, so I have ordered another switch from autozone. Youtube leads me to believe I have the necessary skills to replace it, but I may bring it up to the space to do it just in case.
Heavy key chains lead to early deaths of those pesky switches.
You’ll want to review any YouTube videos for changing that switch. Some are far easier to replace than others, but to do it safely you’ll want to disconnect the battery and depress the brake pedal for a few seconds. Not sure about Honda, but that’s what you do on the Mazda’s I’ve worked on to make sure the airbag doesn’t accidentally deploy.
Hopefully you can just remove the lower cover on the steering column to do it and not the gauge shroud and both the upper and lower cover. 
I don’t think my keychain was ever heavy, but I definitely own’t have anything but the key in the ignition from now on.
I have only been able to find examples of other hondas, not my exact model/year. Any advice on where I could further check for procedures to stop the airbag deploying? I hadn’t even considered that a possibility…
Probably a Chilton’s manual would be the best source and they are always handy if you want to do your own work on vehicles.
for what it’s worth, in my book, 10 keys is too heavy. No more than 3 has always been my advise, if you can’t find a way to make your car key the only one in the ignition (“breakaway keychains”, etc.)
Chilton’s may be better than nothing, but, if you can get them, the factory manual is really the only way to go (for any car, not just Honda). (see this advice from Tom (@TLAR ) to this effect). Getting your hands on the Honda manual is likely not going to happen, though. You MIGHT be able to find decent info through ShopKey, or similar online services, sometimes libraries offer such services, or sometimes you can talk a local shop into letting you look (may or may not be fees involved; don’t underestimate the power of beer!)…
As for the exact procedure, no dice for me, either, with the youtubes. This is likely close
You can do this! 
Looks like I also need to buy the bolts to re-attach since I am not buying a whole lock cylinder… are they a standard size/type?
IF you need them, they are furnished, typically, to my recollection…
If you do need them, you’ll want to purchase the specific bolts. Their function is integral to the collapsible steering column. That’s why they’re made that way, so they aren’t overtightened, undertightened, etc. even by the factory (or so I’ve been told; never have actually fact-checked that).
Hope I’m right! It’s been longer since I did this than I recollect, apparently. I recall re-using those, but I’m pretty sure that was a personal swap-out of junkyard parts (i.e. my boss would have skinned me alive if I’d done that to a customer’s car, and probably if he’d caught me doing it to my own!) and I recall using new ones in general, but not where I got them…
negative,
Keyless start is like a British or Italian car of the 1980’s - nice to look at but not reliable
I think you mean the 1960s. Nothing (virtually) from the 1980s was worth looking at, or using. Except the Countach. And the 308. Which are Italian. You win.
But more to my point, at least if you have keyless ignition, your problem is not likely to be a heavy keychain. You may have plenty of OTHER problems, but not that one.
Switch arrived, did not include bolts… research continues
Well, poop. Sorry, I appear to have been wrong on that…
based on this post: I’m going to buy these: M8-1.25x50 metric bolt and its corresponding nut and hope… it’s the same, unless I find something else in my reading.
Hm.
I can find the right part for an Accord/Odyssey, but not the Fit…
https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~bolt~break~head~35102-sv4-003.html
I’ll keep looking, but proceeding with your plan will likely getcha there.
THANKS @jast. This one is claiming to fit my car. Had forgotten about that site.
Ordered, will update when they arrive and I get a chance to come out to do the repair.
Well, good news bad news:
Good news-- here’s the procedure-- Disconnect battery. Press down break (not sure why here, but my foot was on it. Doubt it matters, but would hate to leave it out and have it matter) remove one screw on bottom of steering column clam shell. Turn steering wheel to the left to reveal a leverage point and use a flat head screwdriver to pop that clip, turn to the right, repeat. Remove top clam shell. 1 screw now revealed on other side holding the bottom part Remove screws, remove bottom part of clam shell.
Fracture spine to get a look at the switch. There is one fillips screw (small head) on the back side that can be removed with a stubby screw driver. There is another on the driver side door side that can be removed with a right angle screw driver. You do NOT have to remove the shear bolts if you are just changing the switch, but it’s a tight and frustrating fit. Remove switch, unplug connector, re-assemble.
Bad news – Issue persists. Replaced the battery based on some reading on fit forums that even if the battery wasn’t testing bad an old or slightly weak battery could cause this issue. It wasn’t the battery either.
is the Starter the most likely culprit now?
Starter, starter solenoid (probably inside the starter), and there’s probably a relay and a couple of wiring connectors in the path too… and a fuse.
This may sound stupid, Are you out of your warranty?